[Car_Overhaul] One Thing Leads To Another..

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

exhaust down pipes are a nightmare to get right

[Kane 34]

I'll have a look and see what I can find, thanks again Mike.

 

I have to admit I'm dreading the exhaust job. I've given myself the task of making a new loom from scratch and I'm even looking forward to that more than the exhaust.

 

Made up a 'to-do' list today and there are a fair few small jobs still to be done so will hopefully have some better progress to report over the next few weeks. I'll be sure to update as I go

 

Cheers

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Hi kane,

 

Good thread, the sunroof has 4 drain points..

 

Here is the rear drain that finally exits behind the bumper underneath the rear cluster

 

 

front exit point

 

 

you can see the rear exit point here, just below the brown connector.

 

 

I hope you solve your water problem

[Kane 34]

Ah Thanks got the pictures that helps a lot. From what I can remember the water didn't drain from the rear, it just overflowed and down the rear hatch. I'll need to have another look when I'm back next week.

 

I take it to access the rear two drains I'll need to remove some side trim? How do you go about removing these if needed? Oh and what would be the best method to clear the drains, a quick blast with an air line?

 

Thanks again

[Kane 34]

Spent a little time on the car the past few days and its coming along. The engine bay itself is coming along, here's a quick picture I took yesterday after fitting the afm etc.

 

 

Started the task of the wiring last night which I haven't particularly been looking forward to.

 

 

 

I've got the majority of the wiring fitted to the ecu plug at the moment but have a couple of questions. I'm re-using the shielded (3 core) wire off the old loom and wondered whether all three wires were required? Upon looking at the wiring diagram pin 23 (black wire) and 25 (green wire) go to the CAS although my shielded wire has an additional red wire fitted to pin 23. Is this required??

 

Also I'm wanting to double check the routing of the switched live (pin 18), am I correct in saying that from ecu pin 18 it goes to an inline fuse (what size of fuse should be used here) then onto fuel pump relay and injection relays, pins 3 and 1 respectively. Finally onto the positive, somewhere on the shunt box??

 

Any help would be great.

 

Cheers

[Anthony 1,000]

Looking good

 

The wiring isn't too bad, just be methodical and take your time about it. Worth thinking in advance where you want the loom to route and certain components to sit and not just blindly re-creating the original loom which, in my opinion, is less than ideal in a 205 (particularly the BX 16v variant!).

[Kane 34]

Hi Anthony.

 

Yeah I spent a bit of time yesterday out at the car measuring up the chosen route and think I have it all planned. Both the ecu and relays (fuel & injection) will be located in the cabin by the drivers footwell to help protect them from the elements and also to make the engine bay a little tidier.

 

I've been looking through a number of other people's work on here for a little help as the loom I received with my engine looked as though it had been put together by a blind person so it was no use for comparison. I've noticed that I've still to buy a couple of accessories for the build including fuel relay holders and a few more in line fuse holders.

 

Just out of interest is the inline fuse located on the switched live (pin 18 ecu) the only one required? I've received a lot of info from sport01.... (Geoff Ayton) on here which has been helpful although in his build he has included several fuses which I can't quite decifer the location/requirement of from the other info I have.

[Anthony 1,000]

In my opinion, you only really need a fuse on the main loom power feed (which is fused in the shuntbox not the loom) and then the fuel pump is fused using the standard 205 fuel pump fuse (on the main fusebox) rather than including the one on the Mi16 loom which is there as standard.

 

There's no harm in adding one for the switched live of course (other than that being another possible place for a bad connection I guess) but I personally don't see that it's really needed - certainly Jetronic 205 and GTi-6 engine looms don't have one for what that's worth.

 

Good shout on moving the relays into the cabin near the ECU - their location behind the headlight is probably one of the biggest causes of electrical woes on a typical 205 Mi16, either through damp getting into the relays or the wiring corroding and breaking off at the base of the relay.

[Kane 34]

Ah ok I might just leave it out then, as you say it's just another connection that could possibly cause trouble down the line. Thanks for the help.

 

I've got a few hours planned on it again this afternoon so should hopefully post some more progress later this evening.

 

One last question - in sections of the loom which are spliced I.e. multiple earth's joining into one and then onto their location what would be the best recommended method for the join? Crimped altogether with a connector and heat shrink on top or solder together with heat shrink? This is my first attempt at making up any type of loom so advice would be great.

 

Thanks again

[S@m 156]

I presume this is a 2 row mi16 ECU?

 

If so pin 18 is the permanent live for the ECU from the battery, it is not a switched live output from the ECU but rather a permanent live input. It is best to fuse this via the shuntbox as Anthony states above. The same wire also provides the permanent live feeds for the high current side of the injection/fuel relays.

 

Pin 35 is the switched live which then energises those relays.

 

The extra wire on the CAS sensor wiring is necessary, i believe anyway, as it connects pin 3 on the CAS with the shielding on the other wires then earths it to pin 23. I would imagine this is to earth the shielding and let it do its job, at least that is my limited understanding.

Edited July 29, 2014 by Sam306

[GLPoomobile 958]

One last question - in sections of the loom which are spliced I.e. multiple earth's joining into one and then onto their location what would be the best recommended method for the join? Crimped altogether with a connector and heat shrink on top or solder together with heat shrink? This is my first attempt at making up any type of loom so advice would be great.

 

 

I used heat-seal butt connectors. You slip the cable in to the connector, crimp it down, then apply heat which both heat-shrinks it and melts a glue inside. Then wrapped in self amalgamating tape over the joint. If possible, it's worth trying to even out the number of cables going in to each side of the butt-connector - so if you have a single earth being spliced in to 3 (for example), that's 4 wires going through the butt-connector so you could have 2 each side. This isn't always possible as it can mean having wires going in the wrong direction and you don't really want to be bending them back on themselves to go in the right direction.

 

The connectors I used are on this page

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/heatsealterms.php

[jackherer 543]

I'd recommend the solder sleeves at the bottom of that page instead of the crimp splices. You just need a heatgun to shrink them down and simultaneously melt the solder. I am not keen on soldering wires in cars but these don't have any of the disadvantages normally associated with soldering and they seem to be Peugeot's approved repair method too.

[Kane 34]

Thanks for the input folks.

 

Just so I'm correct here on the fusing. I am running a line from pin 2 of the shunt box connector to pin 18 of the ecu with a splice running to the fuel pump relay (pin 3). Then from the other pin on the shunt box connector I am running a wire to pin 3 of the fuel injection relay. This should in theory provide the required fusing in this part of the engine loom yes?

 

Apologies if this is the same question as before I just want to clarify before I start sleaving things up.

 

Thanks

[jackherer 543]

The only reason you'd use separate fuses is so if one circuit fails the rest can continue but as the result of any one of them failing is the same (engine not running) one fuse is all you need IMO.

[Kane 34]

OK doke I'll go ahead with what I've planned. Thanks again for the help folks

[GLPoomobile 958]

I'd recommend the solder sleeves at the bottom of that page instead of the crimp splices. You just need a heatgun to shrink them down and simultaneously melt the solder. I am not keen on soldering wires in cars but these don't have any of the disadvantages normally associated with soldering and they seem to be Peugeot's approved repair method too.

 

Yep, I did actually want to use those ones at the time. IIRC I bought some, but the sleeves just weren't wide enough to squeeze in multiple wires, whereas the heat-seal ones have a wider sleeve since it's designed to shrink around the joint. The solder ones would certainly be fine for joining two wires, but for joining multiple wires they are a bit more limited.

Edited July 29, 2014 by GLPoomobile

[Kane 34]

I've ordered a selection of both types so they should be here tomorrow. I'll have a go at the rest of the connections then.

 

In the mean time I've got to add the brown multi-plug and their wires to the main portion of the loom so will get on with that today and report back once I'm done.

[Kane 34]

Another quick wiring question folks.

 

For the 6 pin brown multiplug, I have on my wiring diagram that pins 3 and 4 go into one connector and then split onto pin 2 ignition amp, and pin 1 coil. Just wondering if this is correct?

 

Cheers

[GLPoomobile 958]

That's how mine's wired, yes.

[Kane 34]

Perfect, thanks mate.

[Anthony 1,000]

Are you sure about that, as it doesn't sound right to me (although I don't have an Mi loom in front of me to check against)?

 

The wiring on the underdash 6 pin brown plug though is as follows:

 

1. N/C

2. Fuel pump

3. Earth

4. Tacho

5. Engine check light (not present on some early Phase 1.5's)

6. Ignition (Phase 2) or starter solenoid (Phase 1.5)

 

The earth on pin 3 is unused on 205 Mi16, GTi-6 etc conversions and can be safely left out, so you should just have 3 or 4 wires depending on whether you've wired up the engine check light or not - I don't see why you wouldn't, but many people don't for whatever reason.

[S@m 156]

It doesn't sound right to me either- i remember that pin 2 of the amp goes to pin 1 on the coil but i'm fairly sure they connect to nothing else. I'd have to check CAPS when i get home for more info.

[Kane 34]

The info I have for the 6 pin plug is as follows

 

Pin 1 - not used

Pin 2 - Fuel Pump Relay

Pin 3 - Ignition Amp

Pin 4 - Ignition Coil

Pin 5 - Not used

Pin 6 - Starter Solenoid

 

My car's a '89 1.9 Gti (Phase 1.5) so I'd assume pin 5 is unused. Pin 2 and 6 are correct although pin 3 and 4 don't seem right. By the looks of it my pin 2 from the ignition amp should just go direct to pin 1 of the coil and not to the 6 pin multi-plug at all. Anthony do you know what pin on the fuel injection relay that pin 4 goes to?

 

I've got a copy of CAPS on an old notepad so I'm going to have a quick look at that just now and see if I can make sense of it.

[Kane 34]

Could someone confirm for me if these pins are correct for the 9 pin multi-plug also.

 

Pin 1 - Reverse light switch

Pin 2 - Reverse light switch

Pin 3 - coolant temp switch

Pin 4 - coolant temp sensor

pin 5 - alternator

pin 6 - oil pressure switch

pin 7 - oil temp sensor

pin 8 - oil pressure sensor

pin 9 - switched +ve to coil

[Anthony 1,000]

I imagine that your car should have the engine check light wiring if it's an '89 - certainly my old 89/F had the wiring present, although there wasn't a bulb fitted on the dash cluster.

 

The pinout I gave above is correct and is what I've made numerous 16v looms using. That's not to say that yours is wrong as such, just slightly misleading in the way that it's written.

 

Basically, you should have the following on the 6 pin brown plug being a Phase 1.5:

 

1. N/C

2. Fuel pump - connect this to the output pin on the fuel pump relay

3. N/C

4. Tacho - connect this to the switched negative LT side of the ignition amp / coil.

5. Engine check - connect this to the appropriate pin on the Mi16 ECU

6. Starter solenoid - connect this to the starter solenoid.

 

Apologies for the slight vagueness but I'm at work so don't have my notes or an Mi16 loom here to bell out. If needs be I can double check and confirm later for you.