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Rust Rust And More Rust!


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222 replies to this topic

#21
Telf

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A selection of the issues.Mainly concentrated around the rear end.

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#22
Telf

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As you can see its along the bottom of the sills, the bumper racket panel and in the area of the corner of the fuel tank area... I'm thinking if I can get the tank out and clean everything up then my local body shop can do the rest.

 

They seem to think it might be time to remove the sills, do the inners and fit new outers. He charges £30 per hour but I'm not really sure how much its likely to cost.


Edited by Telf, 14 October 2016 - 03:44 PM.


#23
Telf

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And a couple of other shots

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#24
Anthony

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That doesn't look too bad - I was expecting far worse if I'm honest from your earlier posts!

The rear bumper mounts are a common rust point these days and Skyquake on here does a nice repair piece quite cheaply.

Edit: Just seen the later picture - the bumper mount area looks to have spread beyond where the repair panel covers, although still hardly a show stopper.

Edited by Anthony, 14 October 2016 - 03:50 PM.


#25
Telf

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Hey Anthony,

 

Skyquake has supplied a pair of panels. I honestly don't know what to do about the sills etc. The rust on the tank corners bothers me- its beyond my ability to repair but on the other hand I'm not sure how bad it really is as far as a proper body shop repairing it is concerned. They have initially quoted in the region of £1000.( to replace the outer sills and repair any inner damage, sort the bumper panels and investigate the leaky footwells)

 

The other issue it has is the leaking footwells so I'm going to try and remove the front wings over the weekend...


Edited by Telf, 14 October 2016 - 04:16 PM.


#26
allye

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Remember this!

http://forum.205gtid...63#entry1488429

#27
Telf

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Ali I do indeed!



#28
DamirGTI

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Perfect opportunity to buy yourself an MIG welder and learn how to weld !

 

Don't be scared off rust/bodywork repair , at least try it out and see what happens .. i bet you'll be surprised with what can be done by yourself without spending xx.xxx amount of money paying someone to do it for you , and who knows you might end like an master welder after fixing that !

 

All the areas seem pretty common sense and i dare to say not hard to fix up .. of course , once you start poking up the rusty areas you'll find more stuff to do , but this can certainly be done no need to re-shell .

 

I did some mega crappy stuff on mine back in the days , it can hardly be worse than this :ph34r: :

http://forum.205gtid...showtopic=97351

 

 

D



#29
Telf

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Right today I'm taking the tank out- Haven't done this before.

 

Any tips ? as far as I can tell its a couple of bolts and disconnect the fuel lines and filler + remove the exhaust/unhook the brake cables?

 

I see in the manual it talks about some straps but I don't see these?!?

 

Then tilt the tank towards the back?

 

This sound about right?

 

As I want to keep the engine in reasonable health during this repair period is it possible to start it if the fuel lines are submerged in a can of fuel - ie will the engine suck fuel up or does it need the pump?



#30
Anthony

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Make sure the tank is low on fuel before removing otherwise you'll spill it everywhere and it'll be heavy.

If it's still present there's a strap under the heatshield that's attached at one end to the beam.

You'll need the fuel pump to run the engine, it won't syphon fuel by itself as it needs to be pumped and pressurised.

#31
Telf

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ok well I can probably rig the pump to run I guess if it turns into a months long effort.. thanks anthony



#32
Tom Fenton

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I wouldn't waste your time trying to rig the fuel system up. If you are that worried put a small amount of oil down each plug hole and turn the engine over on the starter once a month.

#33
Telf

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that's not a bad idea tom- I'm only bothered as it will be outside - I've no garage. I suppose if its got oil and coolant it will probably be ok.



#34
Telf

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Does anybody have any recommendations for a Mig welder? I've been told not to get a gasless one but apart from that I don't know a lot about them. Having read up online I'm still none the wiser with regard to the quality I would need to repair a Pug.



#35
steve@cornwall

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The gut who use to weld my old Ford's and minis always favoured gas for welding (I've spent many hours on "fire watch"...lol) ans was always useful too for heat to shape fabricated patches. I've always fancied learning gas welding but cost has stuck me with a second hand gassless mig. Don't know how feasible that option is.


Damir, wow! My first read of your rebuild topic and I think I will always be a little afraid to lift a 205 carpet from now on. If that was your learning experience I'm inspired.

#36
Tom Fenton

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Gas welding is out with the ark im afraid. No one bothers any more, mig is quicker neater and no risk of distorting everything to hell and/or setting everything on fire.
My advice re: a welder is buy one that you can get all the bits for over and above a cheap unknown.
I've got a Snap on which has served me well for years. It's a re branded Cebora.

#37
DamirGTI

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Damir, wow! My first read of your rebuild topic and I think I will always be a little afraid to lift a 205 carpet from now on. If that was your learning experience I'm inspired.

 

No need to be afraid ! this red one was really an exception , it's impossible to find something similar ... was crashed on the RH side pretty hard and really badly repaired afterwards , suppose that the side of the floor was ripped up apart from the crash hammered out a bit and just bodged up with tons of filler and sold on ..

 

Ditto , get an mig welder it's so much easier to learn how to weld with an mig than any other arc or gas kit and especially tig ! for thin sheet metal bodywork repair even the cheapest bog standard low amp mig welder will do just fine , but do buy an decent one and spend a little bit more cos it'll pay out in the long run .

Also , get an argon/co2 gas mix ("stargon") , it's better than the straight co2 you'll have better weld control on thin metal - less chances of burning up the metal , heat distortion and cleaner welding with less sparking .

 

This site is handy for bodywork repair tools and "how to" :

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

 

 

D



#38
Telf

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Thanks for the link Damir. Is that red 205 still alive?



#39
DamirGTI

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Yes ! still here and driving , it's now some odd 14/15 years since i bought it and is my daily drive through all these years .. i have another two an black one and an sorrento which are in much better condition bodywork wise , but for some reason i cannot get rid of this red one and i do not prefer red color ether !

 

 

D



#40
Telf

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right fuel tank removal...

 

ive removed the strap, fuel filler, disconnected the breather and the pump/wiring.

 

Unbolted the 2 stud bolts at the back . the tank has dropped at an angle but wont drop any further- is there something I'm missing??