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Rust Rust And More Rust!


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222 replies to this topic

#41
commievid

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Doesn't one side of the tank have some sort of lip that it sits on? The front I guess? I can't remember but I seem to recall needing to lift a bit and wiggle.



#42
Telf

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Got it thanks! it needed so serious pulling rearwards!



#43
Telf

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tanks out and heres the results:

Attached Files



#44
Telf

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so theres a hole as can be seen on the top right picture but most of the tank enclosure seems to be surface rust.

 

Not sure how to proceed! I'd been set on ripping the sills off as I know there is a hole in both. they both have a hole in the space behind the rear side trim(were the seatbelt emerges from). I haven't yet stripped the interior.

 

So do I keep and try and repair the original sills or go for a new set? I've had various advice- some think keep and repair the old based on they are made of better metal?!? Apparently the new pattern ones aren't that great?

 

Any thoughts on this from the various folk that have restored and repaired this area?

 

I'm not wanting to turn this car into a concourse shiny example- I use it daily so just want to keep it in good nick- if I make it too shiny I'll just get precious about it!



#45
And

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Back to be the welding one thing I keep coming across is if the metal is dirty seam sealer pitted rust if it can't be avoided is to use the gasless flux core wire in a gas shielded mig it helps clean as you weld but not all welders can run it as you need to turn the polarity round.

#46
Telf

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hi andy- im actually thinking of letting my local body shop sort the rust-hence my question about replace or repair the sills



#47
allye

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Have you given it a good shove to the rear of the car?

#48
Miles

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I'd repair, main issue with any welding is protection when done, Outside is easy but the inside is another issue



#49
Gaz205

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If you're crapping yourself about that amount of rust I hope to hell I never take a look under mine!!! From those pics and what you have said it sounds like normal age related wear n tear.
Look forward to seeing how you tackle it.

Edited by Gaz205, 17 October 2016 - 07:07 AM.


#50
murtaghp

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That level of rust looks to be near identical to mine when I did the floor pan a couple of years ago and funily enough, I had a holes both side in much the same place (marked with the white circle) which has since been welded.

 

I also had to fabricate and weld in a couple of repair plates as per the 2nd & 4th photos (then the proper repair sections became available)

 

I then used a wire wheel on a grinder to clean up the rest and treated the area with FE123 before spraying with Epoxy Mastic. It still looks good today (although it has not seen much action since)

 

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#51
Gaz205

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Are those panels available now or are we talking a long time ago?

#52
murtaghp

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I beleve they are still available in the group buy section under "rear bumper mounting brackets"



#53
Telf

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they are - skyquake supplies them- I've just bought a pair



#54
Telf

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im confident I can sort the surface rust- im trying to decide what product to use- looking at the bilthammer deox- c gel which seems to eat the rust- or a rust converter which FE123 seems to be. Not sure the best route.



#55
Telf

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As for the rusty bits and the holes I'm now edging towards cut out a patch with parts from a pattern sill. I'm trying to keep as much original car as possible.



#56
Telf

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paul - how long did it take you to take it all to bare metal? My floor seems ok- its covered in a thin layer of stone chip. I'm thinking of removing it all but thought I'd do more harm than good as I believe its galvanised and therefore protected reasonably well


Edited by Telf, 18 October 2016 - 04:53 PM.


#57
murtaghp

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I'd did it in stints but all in it probably took me about 3-4 hours to wire wheel the rust. I also left the factory under seal on the floor pan alone. I only removed damaged sections until I hit good metal.

Make sure you wear good goggles and a dust mask, it may even be worth investing in one of the combined ones as mine kept steaming up (I ended up wearing swimmingly goggles in the end)

I scrubbed the floor pan (with petrol and a dish brush) which was a pain following years of oil leaks but it came up very well and showed me any parts where the factory sealer had been compromised.

Best of luck

Edited by murtaghp, 18 October 2016 - 05:47 PM.


#58
205Rallee

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I did my boot floor, light surface rust with a rust converter, Por 15(I think) two pack paint brushed on and then sprayed on waxoyl underseal and waxoyl as well.

 

Also had the problem with one crusty rear bumper mount, looked quite bad but my mate Rob made up repair sections as per the photo, also did the rear end of the sills which weren't actually too bad.

 

Problem is, once it is completely finished I'll never want to take it out in the rain! No, I will as it looks like it will hit the roads again after 11 years off the road in December just in time for its 29th birthday. Can't believe it is that many years since my dad picked it up from the dealer, seems like yesterday.

 

Not bad these Peugeots as it's not a lot of rust for 29 years :)

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Edited by 205Rallee, 18 October 2016 - 06:09 PM.


#59
Telf

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205rallee- mine keeps rusting in the same spot as shown in your pics- nearside rear arch- repaired twice now- I cant figure out whats causing it- I've seen the metal cut out at the bodyshop. I figure its the hole at the rear of the arch (by the bumper bracket) allowing crap to accumulate and rot it?



#60
205Rallee

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Could be, I will make sure there's a good coverage of wax in there.