Xu10J2Te Reoccurring Rear Main Oil Leak.....

[welshpug 1,621]

I had a Payen cam seal which was apparently good quality but kept leaking. Bought a genuine Peugeot one and the leak went away. Payen one was about 0.5mm smaller on overall diameter and had significantly less grooves then the Peugeot one.

unusual experience there, hopefully just a one off, all the engines I've built have been with payen seals.

[colti 5]

All times the heel ripped at was when I used sealant on all surfaces as it prevented the seal sticking to the bearing cap as I slid it into the block.The one time no sealant was used(lubbed surfaces with oil on assembly)the seals were intact.

My logic suggests leave inside the bearing cap groove(where the seal leg sits)dry except at the very end and just apply sealant to the block.This allows the seal to grip the cap,slide into the block and hence not stretch and break at the heel.

[welshpug 1,621]

I never use sealant on them, the seal does the sealing.

[petert 549]

Are you entering the rear cap at an angle of 45º and then standing it up? If trying to slide them all the weigh down vertically, they'll tear, unless you use some thin, stiff plastic as shims, which you then remove (as in the pic).

[colti 5]

Are you entering the rear cap at an angle of 45º and then standing it up? If trying to slide them all the weigh down vertically, they'll tear, unless you use some thin, stiff plastic as shims, which you then remove (as in the pic).

Wow,thats a contraption!

New dose of enthusiasm took me this week.

Stripped it out again to find the rear main pushed out at the bottom.

Sooooo,Drilled a 2nd drain hole at the 5 oclock position(looking at the cap when uninstalled) in the bearing cap.Was careful to match the original holes angle of penetration hoping not to weaken the caps vibration tolerance.

Noted that a genuine rear main seal is a slightly tighter fit in the cap housing.

Genuine hockys fitted with just a blob of RTV on the inner and outer heal sides and to the inside of the block(Welshpug,I'm with you there,we shouldnt need to seal em really).

Rear seal fitted dry in the housing to allow it to grip more.

New,genuine flywheel bolts that come with sealant on the threads(wasnt the leak source but cheap enough and they've been out enough times!).

 

Interestingly its always a bitch to get oil pressure up on the 1st fire up.Its worse if the pump pick up end is'nt covered in oil for any length of time.This was one reason why I rebuilt the motor earlier.Appears this allows the pump to drain meaning it cant suck oil back up unless its reprimed.

Oil filter off.Loads of oil from the pump upwards noted so looks like the filter check valves ok.

So, plugs out and rotated the engine backwards using the crank nut allowing the pump to draw oil out of the cooler lines(with the filter off could see the oil disappearing down the cooler line from the filter head).

Filter back on,plugs back in and bingo oil pressure appears!

Had the engine at 3.5k for 10 mins with no leaks yet but reserving judgement till its properly built up and road tested....

[petert 549]

That's a page from the XU9J4 rebuild manual. Must be a factory tool.

[colti 5]

It appears Ive nailed it!

Sticking my neck out and have booked a track day for the 22nd!