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Dwf D6c Swap


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44 replies to this topic

#21
pavlony

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Price is for set of 4 pieces.

#22
MiCRO

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QUOTE (pavlony @ Oct 23 2010, 12:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Price is for set of 4 pieces.


That's really cheap then, have you put them in already? What are the impressions?

@rodionski: I'm also hoping they will, cause here in Croatia, Mi16 ones are 100euros+VAT EACH!


#23
rodionski

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QUOTE (MiCRO @ Oct 23 2010, 11:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (pavlony @ Oct 23 2010, 12:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Price is for set of 4 pieces.


That's really cheap then, have you put them in already? What are the impressions?

@rodionski: I'm also hoping they will, cause here in Croatia, Mi16 ones are 100euros+VAT EACH!


They work alright even in racing environment - 50k km is my engine runing time since rebuild.
You could save some money if you order Kolbenschmidt by part # - they are around $200 per set in Ukraine. The ribbed ones smile.gif

#24
pavlony

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Finishing engine will have to wait. I now have major problems. I haven`t replaced rh driveshaft on the time (couldn`t find), and now my diff housing is broken.
Tomorrow i will see if there any more damage.

#25
pavlony

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This will be difficult to patch[attachment=14644:gearbox.jpg]

#26
MiCRO

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Bad luck sad.gif

Maybe now is the time to change the gearbox for diesel one, AFAIK it would provide better acceleration?

#27
pavlony

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I currently have three dismantled gearboxes. My BE3 with broken housing, BE1 (in good condition ) and diesel gearbox. I want to transfer BE3 core in BE1 housing (because regular reverse shifting). And next job is transplanting diesel synchro cone in BE1.

I bought a diesel gearbox because I thought that fifth gear is longer than mi16. It`s wrong. It is the same set. I have not counted the other gears, but I think the only difference is diff.

Some guy offer me XM 2.0 gearbox (probably have longer fifth gear)

#28
B1ack_Mi16

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If you have a 1.9 TD gearbox the gearbox housing itself on this box is reinforces to the regular BE1 / BE3 ones from the same time, so could be an idea to use that.

Normal 1.9D however has the weaker housing.

#29
welshpug

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personally I'd just use the casing and any synchro and matching gear parts, otherwise use all the MI16 final drive etc.

#30
pavlony

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It is a plain 1.9 diesel gearbox. Case is different, (the clutch fork mechanism and no place for crankshaft sensor), and obviously weaker.
But synchro cone is less worn due shifting at 2000-3000 rpm instead of 5000-7000 as MI16.

#31
pavlony

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*#%!!! everything is upside down. 2nd gear synchro is damaged. But I can`t simply replace synchro necklace. I must disassemble whole set. Oh no. How do I connect it. I do not know

#32
pavlony

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Job done. Gearbox works excellent. Now I have BE2D gerabox biggrin.gif

#33
MiCRO

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As I'm about to rebuild my XU9J4Z (DFW) engine and I want to convert it to a D6C engine I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions in your topic.

I hope somebody could help me.

First of all, im interested in how much material is it possible to take from the head, I think I need to take off ~1mm to get D6C compression since I've bought a +0.2mm headgasket. Is this possible or is it too much? I'd rather get the compression with D6C pistons but I can't find any.

Secondly, I read on this site http://www.taylor-en...v_overview.html about D6C and DFW engine differences, and was wondering, which is better, to keep my inlet cam pulley #3, or change it to a #2 or a #4 maybe, considering the compression increasement (I'm aiming at 10.4 as in the D6C)?

Edited by MiCRO, 10 January 2011 - 07:57 PM.


#34
welshpug

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I would just fit D6C pistons rather than skim the head excessively.

#35
petert1345402284

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Skimming the head will only get you to around 9.8-10:1. Much better to skim the block and liners 1.30mm.

Definitely keep the #3 on the inlet if using standard cam.

Edited by petert, 12 January 2011 - 04:21 AM.


#36
MiCRO

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QUOTE (petert @ Jan 12 2011, 05:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Skimming the head will only get you to around 9.8-10:1. Much better to skim the block and liners 1.30mm.

Definitely keep the #3 on the inlet if using standard cam.


Thanks a lot. How much do you think I could have by skiming the block 1.3mm? 10.4:1 or more?

#37
petert1345402284

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10.8:1

also add some more intake duration!

#38
MiCRO

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QUOTE (petert @ Jan 12 2011, 11:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
also add some more intake duration!


How can I do this?

I'm planning to keep standard camshafts.

#39
petert1345402284

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Either reground or new cam is necessary.

#40
MiCRO

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QUOTE (petert @ Jan 12 2011, 09:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Either reground or new cam is necessary.


Since I'm limited with my budget, or better say I have no budget at all laugh.gif what do you suggest.

I only want to convert my DFW into D6C since I'm rebuilding the engine, would it be enough to skim the block for let's say 1.2 (to get 10.4:1), and put the #2 pulley? Or are the camshafts also different? Would it be necessary to remap the car after these changes?