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[car_restoration] Saved From The Chavs! Cherry Red Restoration

205 GTI 1.9l Cherry Red Restoration

184 replies to this topic

#41
vtifan

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Dear All,

Just to let you know that work seem pretty happy to make up a batch of these bumper mounting brackets. Just waiting on prices..

In other news, did a lovely job of painting up my rear beam. All glistening yellow & black with plasti-dip red roll bars. I then promptly dropped it, and now I shall be starting from scratch...

Due to the British summer, I have made little progress on the car itself recently, and have busied myself plasticare-ing and trim painting, so nothing much to report.

My fuel lines look pretty cracked up, so I was wondering about replacing them. Can't seem to find any on eBay, so if you've got any in your garden shed, give me a shout! Can you get braided ones anywhere?

Cheers,

Mike

car looks very similar to mine in the rusty areas,i really think thats pretty much as good as you are going to find shell wise,i would really take your wire wheel to the last 10 inches of sill as you often find that the stonechip is the only thing holding it together,a good pointer is the seam sealer at the bottom of the sill join,if it is split or cracked there will almost definately be rust or rot under there.keep up the good work and if in doubt cut it out :D
put me down for the pair of bumper support as well please 1.5 mm with the 2 holes if possible p.s i dont think a chav has ever been near this car :D

#42
SkyQuake

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Dear All,

Been away for a week surfing (or trying to) on the Gower, South Wales, so that's the reason for the lack of updates.

This weekend however, I have manages to make some good progress. I have been spending the majority of my time laid on my back, finding more and more small rust patches in the underside of my boot floor panel. I've spent so long under there now that I had to invest in a Screwfix Car Creeper, which is the best £26.99 I have ever spent!

http://www.screwfix....r-creeper/16245

It seems that the mixture of old underseal and waxoyl has managed to hide a multitude of sins! So to anyone attempting the same venture on the driveway, here's my advice:
  • Don't. Pay some chump to do it for you.
  • Buy a car creeper and a really good full face mask, the angle grinder wire brush is a beast from underneath.
  • Work in patches. Don't try to do the whole lot in one go. Clean a section, treat with rust killer and etch prime. If you try to do the whole lot in one go it is just an epic task!
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I have also now finally sorted out the damage caused by the large spoiler, and sourced a replacement. Pictures to follow.

Nearly finished painting the rear beam (again). Here's an action shot of me using Wurzel's technique of burning out rear beam bushes. There's nothing like the smell of scorching rubber in the morning!

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Hopefully I'll be looking at sorting the rest of the dent's & bodywork damage, and removing the engine in the next few weeks. Watch this space!

Mike

#43
m@ttc

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  • Work in patches. Don't try to do the whole lot in one go. Clean a section, treat with rust killer and etch prime. If you try to do the whole lot in one go it is just an epic task!
Posted Imagejust figuring this out myself good tip, keep it up

#44
pugpete1108

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i did the whole underside of mine last year, b*tch of a job but well worth it.

you waxoyl'ing it too?

#45
welshpug

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do hope you're doing above the tank whilst you're at it as well :)

#46
SkyQuake

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@ PugPete,

It certainly is a b*tch, couldn't agree more. Dropped the angle grinder with wire brush on myself not to long ago, and it bit a lump out of my arm!

Haven't decided on the coating(s) yet. My old man (who is a very experienced mechanic) absolutely swears by waxoyl, as it allows you to see rust forming (as opposed to rubber coatings, which completely hide the rust until it's too late!) But I'm a little concerned about the level of chip resistance it offers. Maybe I'll just apply it with a trowel and solve both problems in one!

@ Welshpug

I had assumed that the metalwork above the tank would have been fully shielded by the tank itself. Have I made a daft assumption? I was kinda hoping to get away without removing the tank; that is unless you're about to tell me that that would be daft!

Cheers,

Mike

#47
johnnyboy666

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But I'm a little concerned about the level of chip resistance it offers. Maybe I'll just apply it with a trowel and solve both problems in one!


I found out that it won't dry at all if you put it on too thick, you just end up with sticky tar-like surface that gets all manner of dust and grit stuck to it!

#48
welshpug

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unfortunately the tank seems to harbour the nastiness even more than not, the sills and seams suffer, its not a big job at all, just take care not to snap the two M8 studs, also gives you the opportunity to change the brake lines which rot away above the tank as well.

#49
pugpete1108

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i dropped the tank when i did mine, tbh mine wasnt too bad but it seemed silly not too..

i wire brushed the whole underneath, treated any patches, primed and top coated. then gave it two coats of brush on waxoyl.

its still quite sticky in some places but im sure it will go off over time

#50
vtifan

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hey mate i am doing similar on mine and using an epoxy mastic 2k paint as a base,it can be applied with a roller or brush,just treating rust with wire brush then 121 rustbeater then epoxy mastic,tiger seal all the joints then a couple of heavy coats of stonechip,then a 2k gloss over that then waxoyl all cavities and potential rust areas,should keep it at bay for a while lol,any news on these rear bumper hanger parts ? pete

#51
SkyQuake

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Chaps,

Thanks for this, there's some really good advice here. Welshpug, at your recommendation I am now going to drop the tank (taking care not to break the studs - which are well rusted by the look of it!) and do the whole job properly!

Vtifan, I looked into your epoxy mastic suggestion. Seems like a very good system. I was planning on spraying the underside with Finnegan's number 1, which was recommended to me as an undercoat, but your suggestion might be another option. For anyone who's interested, the details are here http://www.rust.co.u...6/epoxy-mastic/

As far as the bumper mount brackets go, I have been waiting on a quote back from my place of work. But they aren't half dragging their heels! I think I'll give them until the end of the week before I start looking at other places to get the work done. I will keep you posted as things progress.

Mike

#52
Leon

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Epoxy mastic is a very good choice. I've dropped a couple of 205 tanks, the studs have always looked horrendously corroded but I've not managed to snap one yet :)

#53
vtifan

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Epoxy mastic is a very good choice. I've dropped a couple of 205 tanks, the studs have always looked horrendously corroded but I've not managed to snap one yet :)

wire brush and wd40 helps usually :)

#54
SkyQuake

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Dear All,

Good weather this weekend, and therefore good progress!

First things first, last weekend I promised you some pictures of how I resolved the damage to the tailgate caused by the ridiculous spoiler. As you know, the first thing was to strip the sikaflex off (which took the paint and everything else with it). I was then left with a hole with a raised lip, as sheet metal self tappers had been used. In order to fill these holes, it was first necessary to remove the lips. Now I could have done this by grinding the lips off, but this would have left me with a bigger hole. I therefore decided to indent each of the holes using a ball headed hammer. I then treated and primed each hole, before inserting a pop rivet. This left me with a normal ordinary hole, and the isopon did the rest:

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No sarky comments about the crummy priming please, it's a work in progress! ;)

So moving on to this weekend. Purely down to convenience, I decided to go with the Hammerite No1 for the coating for the boot floor. I'm fairly convinced that the epoxy would have been a better solution, but I would have had to order that in, and I'm fast running out of weekends like the one we've just had. I therefore decided to stop fannying around, and just get on with it. I will therefore be using two (or more) coats of this, followed by several coats of waxoyl.

Posted Image

As before, I strongly recommend working in sections, as this is just the never ending job!

At welshpug's suggestion, I decided to drop the fuel tank to inspect the metalwork above. This was a pig of a job; the studs fought me all the way (as did the jubilee clips, breather hoses and everything else!) Still, one pretty good mouth-full of BP's finest, and lots of colourful language later, and I finally had the tank off!

And I am glad I did!

Posted Image

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So, as predicted by Welshpug et. al. the tank hid a multitude of sins! So thanks for the advice, I'm glad I took it! Unfortunately, I now have a hell of a lot more work to do!

While waiting for the No.1 to dry, I was hunting around the bodywork for patches of rust. Noticed a couple of the trim holes were showing some very slight signs of bubbling underneath the paint. Investigated one or two, and two hours later I had uncovered rust on every single fixing hole. So, my advice for the day, take good care of your holes. Inspect them for nasties and give them a jolly good clean if necessary! :lol:

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That's about it for this update. I'll leave you with this image of my alternative use for the washing line. The girlfriend was not impressed!

Posted Image

More to follow.

Cheers,

#55
SkyQuake

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Dear All,

Just to let you know that work have now come back to me with prices on the bumper mounting brackets. I'll weight them and work out how much they're going to cost to post, then I'll start a topic in the 'Group Buys' forum. If you're still interested, keep your eyes peeled over there..

Mike

#56
cybernck

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Bumper Mounting Brackets Group Buy Topic:

http://forum.205gtid...howtopic=144204

:)

#57
SkyQuake

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Dear All,

Progress this weekend!

Borrowed a hoist from a work friend (thanks to Malcolm), and enlisted the help of my father (hey, you're never too old to beg for help from the old man!), and managed to get the engine out.

Posted Image

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Word to the wise, there are between 4 and 1.48 million electrical connections from the engine wiring loom into the block. It took me nearly four hours to disconnect and label all of them! Oh, that's another hot tip actually; get one of those electricians' labelling machines and label everything! I'm pretty sure I still have no chance of getting everything back in the right place, but at least I've tried.

Of course, it doesn't help when you don't know exactly what things are called in the first place. I ended up with some pretty stupid names for things ('RH water sensor below distributor cap' to name just one!)

It turns out that even the heavy lump that is a 1.9 engine block, can be slid fairly easily over concrete (two people) using a piece of hardboard, such as the ex Ikea cupboard back shown in this picture.

Posted Image

The car sure does look a little empty now!

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In other news, my sheet metal bumper mounting brackets are now fitted. Head on over to the 'Group Purchase' forum which Cybernck has created for me if you would like more info.

Posted Image

While the weather has been poor, I have been stripping down and refurbishing my brake callipers. This wasn't as difficult as I was expecting, so try it yourselves. Gloves and goggles when working around brake fluid though; get it in your eyes, and you'll genuinely consider popping them out with the screwdriver..

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Red calliper paint obtained from ebay.

I now have to finish the clean-up of the underside and the welding in the boot floor. I also have some bodywork to do before thoroughly cleaning and keying the body prior to paint. The sunroof will certainly come off, but I haven't decided about the front and rear windscreens yet. I'm so worried about damaging them that I'm putting off deciding whether to remove them or not. How difficult are they to remove, should I get them taken out professionally?

Many thanks, and more to come soon,

Mike

#58
vtifan

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front screen is pretty easy 2 man job as its just a rubber,but rear is bonded so really needs a pro to remove it

#59
SkyQuake

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Right, time I updated you guys on progress!

I have now finally gotten to grips with the welder, and therefore the various holes in my boot floor. You may recall that it looked like this:

Posted Image

In all cases, my first step was to brush and grind out as much of the rust as possible. The angle grinder and wire brush was good here, but I found an abrasive rust/paint removal wheel in Halfrauds (black and sort of fibrous) which worked excellently. Obviously, there's a bit of a trade off here between removing rust and how much welding you want to have to do. You need to get back to good metal, but don't be too anal, or you'll end up scrapping the entire car!

For very small holes, I simply drilled out the hole, and rebuild it using spots of weld. This takes a bit of angle griding back, but saves too much hassle! With medium sized holes (anything over 5mm), I decided to use a patch on the underside, puddle welded from above. The patch was held in place using a magnet, so that I could weld it from above. After puddle welding, I removed the magnet, and added a few stitches on the underside.

Note, welding upside down is apparently a fire hazard. I have an excellent pair of ex-MoD army coveralls which appear to be significantly more flammable than expected. Be warned!

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In a couple of places, I had larger, particularly nasty regions. In these areas there's nothing for it but to cut out all of the sh1te. Clean it right back hard with the grinder, and then cut out a patch 10mm larger all round. Cut the patch first, and then use it as a pattern to cut the aperture in the panel. I found that the skinny griding disk on the angle grinder was far to big and cumbersome for this job. The dremel on the other hand was perfect. Buy yourself a set of the grinding ('cut-off') discs and they work like a charm.

http://www.dremel.co...il.aspx?pid=541

My nastiest patch of rust was in the rear RH corner of the boot, immediately above the lateral chassis flange which runs longitudinally below the boot. Fortunately, there was nothing wrong with the flange below, and it was only the boot floor which had rusted. I was therefore careful not to cut through the flange below with the dremel, such that I could puddle weld the patch onto it.

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As before, please excuse the messy welding! With some creative grinding (dremel helped!) it didn't look too bad.

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Nothing there that a little bit of body filler won't hide forever!

With this out of the way, I was also able to make good progress on cleaning, treating and painting the underside.

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The patch plates on the underside, which looked horrendous after welding, you can barely even see after one coat of No1. There are obviously several more coats to go on, followed by topcoat and then waxoyl, so I'm actually quite pleased with that little repair.

Obviously the weather is starting to turn, but I do have to get this sprayed before it starts to snow. I therefore have deployed a new weapon in my arsenal, my £80 amazon pop-up gazebo.

Your move Mother Nature, your move.

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I'll be continuing the strip down of the engine bay area next, while finishing the underside of the boot floor. More to follow.

Mike

#60
Kezzer30

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This is a great effort pal and i wish i new how to do all that , looks like its a long but worth it plan should be great once finished glad to see one thats been saved and kept for the long haul annoys me slighly when people break them when someone out there could save them as they are truly worth it. Once again great effort hope the rest goes perfectly for you .



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