Jump to content

Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
 
 

Photo

[car_restoration] 405 T16 Restoration


355 replies to this topic

#1
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Hi.

Just thought I could add my T16 restoration / tuning project on this forum also in addition to on the 405 T16 forum.
I'll however just be copying my posts from the other forum, so they might be quite far back in time compared to how it is today smile.gif

--------------------

Just got this T16 from Ronny, and will try to put it back to a standard car.

At the moment it's completely stripped down, it's missing all wiring and interior, fuel tank and generally lots of parts.

However drivetrain and engine parts I have lots of so I think it will be do-able by getting hold of a 405 Le Mans donor car and a fuelank from a x4 car...

Quite some work in front of me.





--------------------

#2
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Just started a little bit, took off subframe and pressure washed it, will get it sandblasted and painted.







Also started to clean engine compartment and little bit under wheel arches.





Old rust repair on left front arch, think I'll cut that off and see how it looks behind, then weld it up again and seal it off more properly.

#3
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Have removed rear bumper and lights etc. today and took a look at the rear part..

Some rust there is, left rear part of sill must be cut out and new metal welded in.

Also under the boot floor (not too visible in the puicture) there are quite some rust. Anyone got some good rust threatening methods ?

I think I will have to avoid sandblasting due to the mess it creates sad.gif

Rusty sill:





Some rust on b-pillar joint to sill.



Under boot floor, but rust not so easy to spot (apart from the remains of an old tow bar)



With me beeing paraniod about rust I think this will be much work to get sorted huh.gif

#4
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Today I've been hunting more for rust... and I can tell you it was not hard to find it... dry.gif biggrin.gif

Someone have been working on this before and not done a good job at all.



Chop Chop... rust there is.



Removed completely the outer panel layer and it seem like I have to cut away 90% of the inner layer too before it will be good enough to start welding.



Strut tower not looking good either.




#5
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Yesterday the T16 that's been standing for two years became driveable, so now I've put my T16 there instead so I can have a long term working space smile.gif

Will take down the rear suspension and drivetrain next time I'm in the garage.

Just got it onto axle stands today and removed front subframe etc.












#6
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Some more progression.

Took down the rear diff two days ago, had to separate the hubs from the trailingarms to get he driveshafts out.

Some pics from today when I removed the rear subframe (still attached via some cables and fluid pipes).
















#7
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Long time since any update here..
I've been doing some more work on the left wheel arch and I just keep finding more and more rust.

I'm not experienced with this kind of rust removal work, but something tells me I should stop cutting now... and just leave it, weld in new plates and never think about this anymore?

There's rust between the two layers of plate for the strut tower as you can see.. but if I'm to remove this I think I will never be done...

Any suggestions?










#8
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Started to repair rust problems on inner arch...
No idea if this has proper strength or not, guess I just have to see, it doesn't look very good at least...



Made from silver tape shape of the two next plates that need to go in.



Also started to dismantle gearbox, but stopped when I could not get that crappy nut of the end of the shafts.







Also bought a master and slave I will try to get mounted somehow..



And pic of 205 outside garage yesteday, took it for maybe seasons last trip, soon it will start snowing and it has to keep itself inside tongue.gif




#9
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Long time no update.

I've more or less sorted out the rust in the front left arch now...
I think the repair maybe looks worse than it is, it looked better until I welded on the outer set of plates smile.gif












#10
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Some more progress this evening.

Cut out some metal from bulkhead and started to weld in attachement bracket for the new clutch master cylinder. (Nissan 200sx).





Also decided that I will roll the car over on it's side to be able to work properly on the underside. Some rust that needs to be done.

Made a beam attached to the front subframe mounts today, will have to make one for the rear mounting points too before I can roll it over smile.gif




#11
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
today I did some more work also.
(but I've still not made the rear support so I can get it over on it's side.. not sure where to attach it yet).

Started by welding on a extra bit of plate to the master cylinder attachment, to reduce firewall flex when pressing clutch pedal.



Also the stroke seem to be perfect when pedal is bottomed out.





I also removed bearings in the rear trailing arms..
But how do I get out the inner bearing race?



Also made myself a tool out of a 1-7/8" socket to remove the banjo nut on the rear damper units worked like a charm smile.gif





Also tested some wheels with brembo brakes to see what will fit.

The 17" TSW Evo-R wheels I used to have on my red Mi16 fits with like 2mm clearance, so no problems smile.gif



While the 15" PTS Speedlines actually seem to fit radially, but need a 10-15mm spacer to avoid the caliper hitting the rim spokes.

Brakes are really filling out the 15" wheels nicely smile.gif




#12
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
After dinner I decided to go back again to weld up the rust on the roof, that I should have done ages ago smile.gif

From this:



To this..









Quite pleased with the roof fix as it turned out better than I expected smile.gif

Just need to add some filler and it will be good.
Just treated it with the owatrol oil today which I will let dry for a week or so before applying anything more.

I think that was all for today really smile.gif


#13
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Welded up the small plates I cut out from the front part earlier.
Sandblasted the main member before I welded on new plates.







Also welded on the towing bar now, which was ripped straight off.






#14
estland1345402287

estland1345402287
  • Drivers
  • 20 posts
Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Rusty rear sills seem to be quite frequent. Is there are main reason why it happens(winter road salt?)?

#15
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
It's a lot of winter salt both in Norway and in Sweeden (where the car is imported from), so I guess it's a major reason for it.

However at the same time there must be something with the design at the rear of the sills that always makes it start at this point.

At the front part of the sills there hardly are any problems ever.

This one seem to me to be really bad with a lot corrotion also in the front part, both the main member on left side, and both strut tops looks quite bad.

#16
estland1345402287

estland1345402287
  • Drivers
  • 20 posts
Joined: 10 Apr 2009
In my country, salt is also used very often.

Interesting that 205's also seem to have rust there.

#17
welshpug

welshpug
  • Pitcrew+
  • 30,022 posts
Joined: 18 Aug 2006
  • Name:Mei
  • Location:Bridgend
nice to see a 405 getting some attention, a rare sight on the roads these days, luckily most of the british 405's that are still about seem to be holding up a little better with corrosion but not perfect.

is that the 505 that had a 205 shaped dent in it a few years ago the night before pugfest?

#18
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
QUOTE (WELSHPUG @ Oct 9 2011, 09:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
nice to see a 405 getting some attention, a rare sight on the roads these days, luckily most of the british 405's that are still about seem to be holding up a little better with corrosion but not perfect.

is that the 505 that had a 205 shaped dent in it a few years ago the night before pugfest?


Hi there.

Sure it is smile.gif It's the 505 that rammed into the green 205 at the pugfest some years ago indeed.
It's been repainted by now, and only missing a new exhaust manifold for the new turbo, and it'll be ready to run. Hopefully spring 2012.

I've been working on the 405 for 2 years by now, will add some more photos now smile.gif

#19
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Bough a parts donor car for.. well.. the gearbox mount bracket which bolts to the left crossmember.



However it seem like there's only T16/Mi16/1.9TD Phase 2 cars that use this brackets.. This was a 1995 Phase 2, but only a 1.9D and well it had the crappy weld on bracket.

So much for that effort...

Anyway I found some of the new wheel bearing carriers and bigger bottom balljoint setup in the front suspension which I will keep for T16.

I also cut out a piece of the rear left sill so I can repair the T16 shell.

Also got some new parts from Charles today; front diff pinions, flex disc and tripod.
So now I have most I need for the drivetrain apart from new main axles between gearbox and transferbox..




#20
B1ack_Mi16

B1ack_Mi16
  • Pitcrew+
  • 2,775 posts
Joined: 03 Jan 2004
  • Location:Trondheim, Norway
Today I finally managed to get my hands on the gearbox engine mount bracket.
Finally found a 1.9 TD on the breakers..




Been searching for one for ages now.. so now I might be able to test fit the engine and such smile.gif




Reply to this topic