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Posted 27 September 2012 - 02:56 PM
Here is the exhaust bulkhead area of rust and treatment, i think this was down to the old floppy engine mounts the car had when i first purchased it. The exhaust was flopping around hitting it which resulted in the rust >
Here i did use some Bilt Hamber rust converter because i could not remove every last bit of rust here, i did make sure it was surgically clean before it was applied. Then i used some more Bilt Hamber zinc primer then fiberglassed the panels together >
More to follow
Posted 27 September 2012 - 03:14 PM
The scuttle panel was quite rusty, there was a small hole in around the middle underneath the dash area. All was zinc primer treated then filled the hole with fiberglass.
Posted 27 September 2012 - 03:32 PM
Here is the bonnet gas strut fixing points welded in with the top plate and strut brace brackets, they had to be welded in as the wing section was not strong enough for constant bonnet opening and shutting etc. It took a fair bit of fetling to get them to fit right, although one side of the bonnet is a little high but then the bonnet frame needs to be welded or stuck back to the bonnet plate so it sits level with the wing.
Here is the gearstick area, full or the usual steel cancer >
Posted 27 September 2012 - 11:33 PM
Posted 28 September 2012 - 08:01 AM
Really impressed with your work surgie, Respect mate.
Thanks Phill, there's a lot more to come mate.
looking at your pics i see you have welded plates over your strut tops,is this like a mk2 escort style strut top strengthening thing,seems a good plan as i have seen a few rather domeshaped 205 strut tops on cars that have been run low and hard,and as i am going to be running coilovers on the front i think i might just do the same as the car i took them off had a bit of dome shaping going on
Yes, that is the main reason i wanted them, i'v also welded the servo/pedal box plate too, while i was there. The original strut tops are not the thickest steel around, the rally boys get them fitted for the same reason. I got them off ebay, the pedal box plate has to be drilled through to match your car's holes though. I elongated the pedal box holes higher and over to the right, not too much though in case the servo wont fit under the scuttle panel area, this is so the master cylinder is kept away from the cam cover. Its a good job i did because i still had to grind away the rocker cover and melted a little bit off the cam covering for the MS to get enough clearance, but not too much to go through it.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 08:41 AM
Every spot welded panel edge on the inner wings have been stitch welded then zinc primed with Tiger seal on top.
More to follow
Posted 28 September 2012 - 10:35 AM
Posted 28 September 2012 - 11:33 AM
They are specially made for the job, plasma cut i think. I think one company sells a full set with many other sections for the engine bay etc. What i found was leaving the original sealant on at the back/inside of the strut tops which stopped any holes burning through the thin steel strut tops when using high power, yet get good weld penetration. i had also tapered the edges of the tops for a neater look.
What i found where rust starts first more than any other section is around the weldings, then panel edges rather than just flat areas of steel etc.
You can see what i mean looking at my sub frame >
Posted 28 September 2012 - 01:13 PM
Posted 28 September 2012 - 02:05 PM
The full is isn't really what i was after, its a fast road car not a rally car.
Give them a bell about it to see if they still sell them, they are away a lot of the time though so be patient.
Posted 30 September 2012 - 11:51 PM
I think what ill do is post all the engine bay, then chassis bits of work first, then ill get to the mechanical side of things.
When it comes to the floor pan i first originally decided (due to laziness) to get rid of all the rust and peeling sealant but keep the good sealant on then spray the electrolux zinc primer then cover in 1k stonechip.This is what i did, but thankfully it all went a bit Pete tong .
Here are a few pictures of the floor before >
The floor pan was covered in oil either from the engine or gearbox, most probably both, it was layered on tbh. Once thoroughly cleaned and derusted, the electrolux was applied after a good key and clean, then a few coats of the 1k stonechip.
Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:15 AM
I had cleaned it all very well, the only possible conclusion i found was the oil covered sealant some how soaked the oil in causing this reaction, because this was fine once it was dry at the start. The rear end of the floor pan was all ok, just the front sections is where the reaction was.
Sooo once this happened im sure you can understand how unhappy i was with it all, not a happy bunny. I decided not to dwell on this and get up and do it all completely properly, 5 nights on and these were the results after being 60g keyed and surgically cleaned up >
Notice how i'd already started painting, forgot to take the pictures at first.
Posted 01 October 2012 - 11:12 PM
I applied 2 good coats to get good coverage of Jotun Jotamastic 87 2k epoxy boat primer using a small foam roller, i then applied the third thinned down coat, i used quality 2k thinners. The thinned down third coat seemed to give it all a more smooth looking finish.
Here is the technical data of this Jotun 87 primer http://www.jotun.com....21.12.2011.pdf
Its a 2k surface tolerant (small bits of surface rust etc) epoxy paint that is as tough as old boots. I have tried to chip/scratch it off with a chisel and it still wont come off. Its used for sea boats as well as fresh water boats and bridges etc, the sea does pound the boats a lot too.
Here is the floor pan with two coats of Upol Raptor truck bed liner 2k paint. It says in the information that its also suitable for chassis work. I thought if it can handle the stuff truck beds get then its more than enough for the chassis floors. It says you can add 10% of the base coat, i did this so the final coat comes out better, then if the top coat ever got chipped off it wont stand out too much. It says its a tough, durable urethane coating.
Here is the data sheet > http://www.u-pol.com.../RLT-TDS-US.pdf
I let the Jotun 87 flash off for two days, it says any top coat can be applied as long as it has not fully cured because then you would need to key it back and its a bugger to key well. Its best to apply wet on wet, with the summer hardener of the 87 two days was enough but some people wait one day, depends on temperatures etc.
Posted 02 October 2012 - 12:05 AM
This primer is really easy to use and a good price too, its got so many solids i've been able to fill in the panel seams and gaps etc, so no need for any sealant. This primer can be applied in any thickness you require as per tech data, i know this because i made too much and half a jugs worth completely cured solid.
The sill area of the floor was also coated with both, where the jack goes, so hopefully these areas will last. The one thing that most likely caused the floor and chassis to rust is down to the uncaring mechanics/owners using the floors as some sort of lifting point.
Here is the floor pan after the final top coat, three coats was applied after the Upol Raptor had 24 hours to flash off well enough >
Bet you lot are getting a bit sick of all these floor pan pictures
Posted 02 October 2012 - 12:15 AM
Posted 02 October 2012 - 06:08 AM
Big respect, it looks great. You could earn good money doing a proper job like this for a living,
Posted 02 October 2012 - 05:34 PM
I love your jig frame for turning the shell around, wish i had one to use for this type of work. Did you make it yourself, it looks well made. Do i spot a brake disk used for turning it round ?
When it comes to sorting out the floor pan, it was pure determination after the first failed attempt. With being on the floor i had the trouble with wire wheel wire sticking to me like a porcupine, then with the sore shoulders and wrists etc. I used a half empty water bottle to rest my head on. It was all down to blood, sweat and tears but well worth it with the finish i've managed to get. With this, work and everything else, i was very tired and hungry a lot of the time, having no time to myself, which affected me. At the start i hated it too, but then once i got going and saw the light at the end of the tunnel, i started to enjoy it.
At first, i completely removed the hard thick rust, weld a small 4 inch square hole, then went back to it and went down to bare steel. Then a week or so after, before painting i removed the surface rust that had accumulated. When comparing the floor pan that goes up to the rear seat pan section, to the complete rear floor beam area, the floor was a piece of piss. The rear has far more nooks and crannies etc, much more thick hard rust and welding to sort out.
If i did do this as a replacement for my job, then i would invest in a sandblasting room and massive compressor etc. I'm not sure there's much of a market for this type of restoration though.
Do you have a project thread, is it your Graphite grey 205 gti or 6 converted 205 gti ?