Days Work And I Seem To Be Worse Off Than Before!

[Schern 0]

Spent most of today working on the Pug and I now have twice as many warning lights on as I did when I started... and I don't know why! The main job that I had to do was change the thermostat cover as the one fitted was plastic and the pipe fitting had snapped. Replaced it with a metal one and that seems water tight but I managed to snap the thumb screw off the bleed valve. The thread is still in place so it's not leaking but I now can't bleed it. Does this mean a new thermostat housing is needed?

 

I also had a look at the cam belt and discovered I've bought the wrong kit as mines a 114 tooth engine. So all I did was remove the top cover and put it back. I did move the ignition amp and fuel filter so I could get access to the bolts but that's all gone back in fine.

 

I put all the pipes back together and topped up the coolant but obviously have been unable to bleed the thermostat housing. I've given the radiator hoses a good squeeze to try and shift any bubbles. But now when I start the car I have the oil light on the pressure gauge on, the coolant light on the temperature gauge on, the STOP light illuminated, the low coolant light illuminated and the battery light phases between on, off and flickering. The cars got a new battery in it and I always disconnect the battery when I leave the car as it doesn't get used very often so I don't think it's that. I haven't put a multimeter across it yet to see what voltage I'm getting so that's my next check but I'm trying to figure out what I've done that's caused it to christmas tree on me? Oh, and in case it's important the idle seems to be sitting at 1500 even when warmed through (cooling fan kicked in). Help! Please!!

[Anthony 1,000]

I wouldn't worry too much about the bleed screw on the thermostat housing - that one routinely snaps, but it isn't really an issue and the beauty of 8v's is that they pretty much self-bleed.

 

The warning lights are a bit odd assuming that you've not touched the sensor wiring. You've not moved the loom so that it's now rubbing on anything have you that might be causing a short, in particular against the cooling fan blades on the alternator? Shorting the sensor wiring to earth will light the dash up light a Christmas tree.

 

The low oil pressure switch triggers the STOP, low oil pressure and high coolant temp warning lights, and the battery/charge light is triggered from the smaller wire on the alternator.

 

What does the oil pressure gauge do? Does that still read correctly, or is that also showing zero?

[Schern 0]

I'm wondering if a lot of the issues are water related. Quite a lot of water went over the wiring around the thermostat housing when I changed the cover so I'm going to see if just waiting for it to dry out solves the problem. That's really the only thing I can think of as I didn't really touch anything else. Here's how the dash looks. The oil pressure gauge does move. (it lives in a farm shed hence the dirt!)

 

Edited November 1, 2012 by Schern

[Carbs4me 45]

is it just me or is that engine running too hot? im sure the fan should come on and keep it at the line below its currently on.

[Anthony 1,000]

No that's about normal for a 205 GTi with the original radiator thermoswitch.

 

The oil pressure looks distinctly low for ~1500rpm with coldish oil, but given how notoriously inaccurate the senders can be I wouldn't be immediately concerned assuming that's how it read before the recent work. If you increase the revs, does the oil pressure needle climb to halfway or a little over?

 

The sensor wiring does as standard (assuming it's not been removed) run through a brown multiplug that's roughly below the top radiator hose and thermostat takeoff, so it's possible that you've covered it in coolant and that's causing the issues. Certainly if the oil pressure gauge climbs with revs but the STOP light stays on then it's a red herring somewhere with the wiring or pressure switch.

[Schern 0]

The pressure gauge does rise but to exactly what level I can't remember. I'll take it for a run up and down the track and see what it does. There is some milky sludge in the oil filler but I've always put this down to condensation as the car doesn't get used that often. Its a track project so isn't on the road so its difficult to get a good run.

 

Also what's the top right gauge for? I don't think I ever remember it doing anything.

Edited November 1, 2012 by Schern

[dcc 855]

Thats Oil Temp.

 

I would suggest you've disturbed or upset the brown multiplug in the engine bay, or possibly the wiring to the oil pressure sensor, sender and alternator.

[Anthony 1,000]

As said, gauge in the top right is oil temperature.

 

You normally need to have been driving for a few miles at reasonable speed (say on the motorway or an open A-road) or have been working the engine hard before it will start to climb, especially if your car is a 1.9 GTi with an air-oil cooler fitted.

 

It's also worth checking that it's actually connected, as the heat from the exhaust manifold makes the wire brittle and it is often broken and dangling loose somewhere behind the engine. The oil temperature sender is on the back of the sump.

 

Mayo in the oil filler tower is fairly normal on a car that doesn't get a decent run, especially during the colder winter months.