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205 Dimma S16 Turbo Converting To 4X4


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112 replies to this topic

#41
johniban

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Looks like a very heavy rear set up? had you not thought about a tubular set up?



#42
Putte205

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Any updates on this?

#43
lybker

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Finally I recieved my reinforced parts and got around to assemblig the center diff.

 

so i took apart the subframe to gain better access and removed current gti6 box. This has now been sent of to the machine shop for them to adapt it to the rear diff housing of the center gearbox. Not sure if it has been tried before - gti6 with 4x4 box? Lets see how it Works out :-)

 

Had to trim/shave off some reinforcements on the rear of the engineblok and cut the oilpan as the center diff is a tight fit...

 

I did manage to do a trial fit though:-)

 

 

...good to be back in action, hoping progress and updates will flow steadily from now on and till it runs...fingers crossed :-)

 

 

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#44
B1ack_Mi16

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Nice, what reinforced parts did you get and from where?



#45
lybker

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I got the overhaul kit and reinforced diff housing from atdperformance.com Unfortunatly I could not affort his reinforced shafts, and all my efforts finding alternatives failed, even I had a hold of 5-6 people mainly from Finland :-(

 

so now the plan is to reuse the original shafts, but when assembling the splines to fill them with Locktite 660 spline repair glue. Secondary efforts isincluding downgrading power to the 300bhp range and no slicks. :-(

 

I want to get it up and running, even I could not cash out the +2000 euro for the stronger shafts....

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#46
goce.speedy

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Interesting project, i'm doing the opposite of you going from 4wd to rwd using many the same parts for the exact reason, bad transfer box input splines : http://www.505turbo....-engine/&page=1



#47
Schumi

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Nice build. How did you cut fuel tank and add a part to side?



#48
lybker

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...I marked and cut the tank leaving 15mm next to the fuel level senser to ensure sufficient material to weld without influencing the flange and threading for the sensor. cutting was done usng a normal jigsaw

Then I took the half-part I would like to keep and positioned it 90 degree to the most flat surface best fitting a closing plateI I could find on the discarded part and drewthe outline + 10mm. cut it using same jigsaw

 

then I grinded the surface that will be welded to ensure "fresh" material. Welding is tidius and needs some feel to ensure a strong bond without igniting the plastic. I used a temperature adjustable hot air gun with a 90 degree tip that is closed at the end but holes on both sides ensuring material is melted uniformly when it is sandwiched between the 2 surfaces. once it was smoking alot and very soft, I had a friend assist me, squeezing the material together untill iit was below meltingpoint. speeding this up by blowing cold compressed air. 

 

Its actually a bit hard, but I am sure Companies offer this service, maybe it is not that expensive..?

 

...hope it helps - good luck



#49
Schumi

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...I marked and cut the tank leaving 15mm next to the fuel level senser to ensure sufficient material to weld without influencing the flange and threading for the sensor. cutting was done usng a normal jigsaw

Then I took the half-part I would like to keep and positioned it 90 degree to the most flat surface best fitting a closing plateI I could find on the discarded part and drewthe outline + 10mm. cut it using same jigsaw

 

then I grinded the surface that will be welded to ensure "fresh" material. Welding is tidius and needs some feel to ensure a strong bond without igniting the plastic. I used a temperature adjustable hot air gun with a 90 degree tip that is closed at the end but holes on both sides ensuring material is melted uniformly when it is sandwiched between the 2 surfaces. once it was smoking alot and very soft, I had a friend assist me, squeezing the material together untill iit was below meltingpoint. speeding this up by blowing cold compressed air. 

 

Its actually a bit hard, but I am sure Companies offer this service, maybe it is not that expensive..?

 

...hope it helps - good luck

Thank you for detailed information. Actually I want to ask how you weld it ? But your instructions very detailed. I need this type fuel tank for my 106. I will try to make one. I hope it will not leak.



#50
lybker

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....after what seems like endless waiting, my gearbox is back. The coverplate of the 4x4 diff housing has been adapted to fit my BE3R6 box, so now there is nothing stopping the assembly process, as my bx 4x4 driveshafts have also arrived. yah! :-)

 

Modified is the alignment of the diff cover and the surface has ben machined so they are aligned, new pinolscrews are installed and bearing now fits the larger 67mm from the old be1 4x4 box.

 

Hopefully updates from now on will follow with less delay

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Edited by lybker, 09 January 2017 - 07:18 PM.


#51
Juttie205

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Amazing how well it all fits im guessing this peugeot 4wd gear is difficult to find?.

#52
lybker

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...reason for lack of news is the project came to a hard stop, since last update. after fitting the crown sprocket to the 4x4 axle, and fitting the diffhousing, i found the gearbox would not turn. Baffled by this, my emmidiate conclusion was the be3-6 box had been maschined with a critical offset, forcing the 2 sprockets hard together....a long nights sleep and tripple checking the dimensions, I found it had to be something else. Searching the net, i learned that the 306 S16 had been sold with to different final drive ratios:

 

19x75 and 19x77.  This was dependant on age, as the early models where sold with the 19x77. Why this suddenly became my problem? I sold my Quaiffe LSD still fitted with the original crown wheel, knowing I had a spare gearbox in the workshop. To bad the gearboxes originated from different aged cars.

 

However the problem has been fixed - contacted the new owner of the LSD and after 3 hours drive and a quick assembly, the gearbox now seems to be flawless. 

 

Pheew I am pleased to be back into the building process :-)

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#53
welshpug

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glad to hear it was an easy enough fix and no damage was done!   it is always best practice to keep gears as pairs once they have been used, they wear into each other.



#54
lybker

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...just a quick update to confirm progress is still being made

 

First time fitting both the gearbox and transfer box made it clear, I have to remove more material from the oilpan (not anticipated) and also have to fit the smaller plastic watermanifold as replacement of the more bulky aluminum one to ensure sufficient clearance of all components.

 

Pace is slow but steady :-)

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#55
petert

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Yes, the Mi16x4 sump is different and has more bracing around bell housing etc.



#56
B1ack_Mi16

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The T16 seem to be using a regular alloy sump setup (looks like a 1.9 Mi16 sump, although with the additional depth of a normal non-spacerplate sump). In addition it has a strengthening bracket in cast iron between the two sides of the block at the gearbox side.



#57
lybker

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do you have a Picture of this strenghtening bracket?, as I am pondering to reinforce this section where the diff housing is bonded to the centertransmission and bolt it to the engineblock

 

What oil and how much is optimum to use for both the center transmission and the rear differential?


Edited by lybker, 25 January 2017 - 01:08 PM.


#58
B1ack_Mi16

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Not entirely sure about oils, but I think transferbox is 1.8l, but I applied 2 into mine before it showed max at the dipstick.

 

For diff I think also something like 1.8l, I think the upper plug is the level plug anyway.

 

I can try to get a picture next time I'm in the garage of the reinforcement bracket.

 

I bought this uprated reinforced bracket from Charles to connect TB to engine block at the gearbox side:

20140427_152251_zpses61njfc.jpg

 

However there is also one more bracket supposed to go between block and TB closer to the rear engine mount (in addition to the enginemount to TB bolt connection). However I could not find this bracket in my parts bin, so I have left it out for now. Hopefully not too important.



#59
lybker

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Tonight I made good progress - trial fitted the centertransmission maybe 10 times to ensure nothing causing stress due to no clearance. It is a tight fit in any location. Oil return pipe from turbo had to be modified, same goes for the watermanifold behind the waterpump, and further trimming of the oilpan

 

before the final assembly, i cleaned the splines male and female part and added a thick layer of Locktite 660, hoping this will be a good choice to compensate for the large tolerance in the splines. Hopefully it will be better taking the abuse to come :

 

http://www.na.henkel...d=8797714251777

 

 Now getting visual of the limited space for gearlinkage, exhaust and driveshaft, I might be forced to widen the tunnel to compensate.

 

Next steps are adding reinforcement brackets, modify the underframe and add driveshafts :-)

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#60
calvinhorse

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Just read up on loctite 660, sounds like crazy stuff, tighter than a press fit but doesn't harden?