Be Box Rebuild/refresh/refurb Part Sourcing, And Be1-3 Part Crossover

[welshpug 1,621]

all done for now, onto the input shaft and slide on 3rd gear, the synchro hub that was the main reason for the stripdown, and 4th gear and bush.

 

 

Didn't get any pics of fitting the input shaft bearings, but that's straightforward enough, here it is done.

 

 

 

Take one cleaner casing.

 

 

separate the casing and turn it bellhousing side up, slide the bearing outer race in.

 

 

fit the shim on top

 

 

pop the new seal in the guide tube/seal carrier.

 

 

this type originally used a gasket, but I've used some sealant on it, the later type only used sealant, clean and loctite the bolts.

 

[welshpug 1,621]

turn the casing over, supporting it on blocks of wood, as the input shaft pokes through just past it.

 

 

Place the selectors over one shaft then slot the other in and drop the pair carefully into the bellhousing.

 

 

lift the reverse gear idler arm up, slide the idler cog into it on its shaft with the cutout facing the rear.

 

 

wind the bolt in and use it to locate the shaft into the bellhousing.

 

 

making sure you locate the roll pin in its slot.

 

 

push the idler down into its neutral position.

 

[welshpug 1,621]

pop your nice and clean magnet back in its slot before you forget it.

 

 

selector springs and top hat bushes

 

 

slide in the selector shaft.

 

 

drop in the 5th gear selector, and secure it with something suitable as it will naturally sit just too low.

 

 

to get these bits in easily.

 

 

make sure they go in the right way, or you wont get all the gears! ( I wont say how I figured this out...)

 

 

drive in your pair of roll pins, make sure the top selector is aligned with its groove in the shaft and fit the top arm, this is the one that drops down if you need to swap them for a 205 compatible arm.

 

apply sealant sparingly on the mating faces, I used Stag Wellseal, then drop the main casing over and bolt it down, I sent a tap through all the holes to make sure there was no corrosion or crud down any, and wound all the bolts through a Die to clean them up as well.

 

pictured is the reverse idler shaft retaining bolt and copper washer going in.

 

 

pop something in under the pinion to lift the shaft up

 

 

so you can get the clip in around the end bearing.

 

[welshpug 1,621]

fit the selector shaft lock plate, bit of loctite here.

 

 

and the output shaft retaining bolts, more loctite here too.

 

 

after this fit the 5th gear and the synchro, but not the selector fork, push the synchro down so it engages 5th gear and move the selector arms to select another gear and lock the gear train up, get an assistant to hold the box and torque the output shaft nut to 40 LBFT.

 

lift the synchro off the input shaft, fit the selector fork and slide it back down, re-engage 5th gear and torque up the input shaft nut to 40 LBFT as well, pull the selector up and fit the toll pin, fit the detent ball, spring and retaining roll pin.

 

 

have a play with the selector arms to make sure it goes into all gears before you carry on and fit the end casing.

 

That's it for this evening, I need to find a good set of planet gears, would love an LSD but have spent out elsewhere!

 

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You might want more torque than 40, At least double it

Have you re-shimmed it, the old one unless your lucky will be wrong

The input shaft bearings, Are the under flat or tapered?

 

You never need to remove the main selector arm unless your changing the seal,

[DamirGTI 323]

Great info guidance with very good pictures .. well done mr. welshpug !

 

Mods , can you apply this as pinned please .

 

Damir

[welshpug 1,621]

Ahhh thanks for the tips miles, I'm just following the Haynes manual generally where I get stuck!

 

Torque setting is just what was shown in the Haynes manual for them, I'll check the bearing clearance tonight, wasn't tight at all so may even need a thicker shim.

 

 

Actually having seen the price of the shim set I'll be dropping you a line!

Edited September 17, 2012 by welshpug

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Never bought any but always thought it was a selection pack, Reason for the nut's is to stop them moving on the splines which allot do at the light torque setting

[welshpug 1,621]

What would you tighten the nuts up to Miles?

 

had a check of the bearing preload earlier, not quite following the book but nearly, I tapped the outer race to make sure it was seated, then measured it and the guide tube and shim, I've got just about 0.03mm preload as stated in the Haynes manual!

 

 

 

 

the proper way to do it according to the book is to fit a 2.4mm washer and tighten the 3 bolts down evenly till you just start to feel the bearings drag, then take it apart and measure up.

 

 

last pic of the evening....

 

 

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Got this in and running yet?

[welshpug 1,621]

no, i need a decent condition diff for it, and the car is used every day!

[welshpug 1,621]

I got hold of a Diff, an AP suretrac

 

 

 

Dan (DCC) wanted the box it came in, so I needed to remove that, form some reason these crownwheel bolts have a tendency to strip their threads on removal, though don't usually cause any damage to the diff itself, quite odd.

 

 

 

Thankfully the bolts from my 155k diff came out just fine! So wipe them clean and a dab of threadlock, and in they go to the specified torque (65 Nm / 48 Lbft)

 

 

 

 

The diff bearings were replaced when I fitted the diff into the gearbox when Dan had it originally about 2 years ago and looked fine, so no need to replace them.

 

A nice thin bead of sealant on the diff casing and on it goes over the diff (no clearance issues with this unit unlike many plate types, possibly the Quaife as well IIRC ) bolts done to (41 Nm / 30 Lbft) and (12 Nm / 9 Lbft), then pop the speedo drive cog in and the speedo housing over the top, same torque setting as the smaller diff casing bolts.

 

[welshpug 1,621]

gave the end cover a go with some Bilt Hamber Deox Gel, which seemed to do a reasonable job, then a quick wire brush and sand down, rinse the dust off and leave it in the sun to dry, couple of coats of primer then satin black I had lying about spare, doesnt look too bad.

 

 

a nice thin bead of sealant (you may notice I'm using Wurth RTV, I can't find my tube of Stag Wellseal, but this will do the job just as well I believe)

 

 

 

Then pop the cover on and nip the bolts up and there you go, one BE1 1.9 gearbox in one piece again.

 

[welshpug 1,621]

Lastly, the driveshaft/diff seals, you often hear of people cursing cheapo seals etc, but in most cases its just poor fitting techniques, namely from not following the Haynes manual!

 

 

 

Febi do seals which are exactly the same as the original equipment type which I can get off the shelf at my local motorfactor for about £6 a pair, it is important to note that there are two types used by Peugeot, both under the same part number, one has the plastic protector ring which to date is the same as the Febi seal, and you have the newer plain style.

 

 

 

The newer seal is shallower, and should be fitted flush, however the older style seal is taller and should sit proud by 1mm on the left and 1.5mm on the right side.

 

the speedo drive housing actually has three raised parts of 1.5mm, so that's pretty simple to get right.

 

 

 

 

 

Mine being a fairly early 89 car it has the BE3 style clutch arm holes and a TDC sensor hole and securing bolt hole tapped already, so can be retrofitted with later engine management and even a BE3 type clutch if you so wished!

 

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Just read this again, the output shaft nut is wrong, These I do around 100ft lb, saves the hub stripping the spline

[welshpug 1,621]

Ahh bugger! I only sealed the cover back up last night

[petert 549]

Good work on sourcing the Suretrac. Similar performance & characteristics to a Quaife, thus fine for a road car. I had one for 4-5 yrs in my race car but eventually it couldn't handle the increasing torque as I developed the motor.

[timoth123 37 1 Cars]

I'm sorry to drag up an old post.

 

Welsh pug, how did that bearing kit hold up?

[welshpug 1,621]

I think it has done 6k miles or so without issue, just used another one in DCC's hybrid BE box build, 4.93 final drive with 1.6 1st and 2nd and diesel 3-4-5th.

[timoth123 37 1 Cars]

Cool! I bit the bullet in the end, rebuild all complete bar seating the diff bearings, waiting for an oversize shim to do it properly!

[dcc 855]

1.6 5th mei! :/

[blandy 29]

With the output shaft bearing, how much play should there be up and down?

Reason i ask is my box is making a horrible noise in neutral and on idle. With the box stripped the only thing i can see is small amount of play up and down on this bearing? Im guessing this is my issue as all other bearings feel fine and nothing else untoward - I did have this apart recently myself so should of probably paid more attention

[welshpug 1,621]

you mean input shaft? there shouldn't be any play, the taper bearings should have a small amount of preload which you adjust with different thickness shims under the clutch release bearing guide tube/seal carrier.

Edited January 24, 2017 by welshpug

[blandy 29]

No the bearing on the pinion the others funnily enough I checked and spun up. I don't know why on earth I didn't look at that one - rookie mistake. The input shaft I checked the measurement as per the Haynes book with a dial gauge so kind that is good,

 

It appears the pinion shaft almost sits to low hence why thinking the bearing is the cause as there's no shimming etc on that shaft.

 

I have pulled the bearing apart and on the curculio that retains the rollers there is quite a sharp grove where The rollers sit.

 

Also with the noise being in neutral my thoughts are it's gotta be bearing related as in fairness it's quite a simple box

[welshpug 1,621]

there shouldn't be much lateral play in the output/pinion shaft bearings at all as they're rollers. and they're clamped down against the circlip by the 11mm nuts with large washers under the 5th gear sprocket, and there's a nylon bush in the bottom of the casing at the pinion end, they might float in and out a tiny bit but i;ve never had any reason to check them

 

if its noisy in neutral at a standstill it wont be the output shaft, but could be a mis-shapen synchro or damaged gear, or the tapered input shaft bearings.

Edited January 24, 2017 by welshpug