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[Car_Upgrade] 205 Rallye Mi16 Road/hillclimb Build


49 replies to this topic

#21
unariciflocos

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But before that we'll see each other at the Alba Hill-climb.

I may come to Bucharest later this week, I'll let you know the details and I want a passenger ride in the new beast!

Also let me know if you need some parts for the Honda from the States, i'm flying there next week.

Edited by unariciflocos, 10 May 2011 - 07:40 AM.


#22
testamias

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This is to nice to be true.
Mfactory will have on stock my 5.15 FD on 16th of may. If you'll be there is just perfect.
Keep in touch

#23
unariciflocos

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Replaced my tin sump with this contraption:
Posted Image
Posted Image

My attempt at curing oil surge, and it works! At least for me it does. Threw it around roundabouts (they're left turning here) and found some right hairpins and not once did the low pressure light come one.

It's a baffle plate with a high trap door and a tray with an incline that sens the oil to the pick-up via 3 holes in the baffle.

Unfortunately the low pressure light did come on a few times over the last weeks and that has led to one of my bearings being toast and two others showing obvious signs that they've started going. The one closest to the pump survived, but I'll change them all over the weekend.

Edited by unariciflocos, 11 May 2011 - 09:42 PM.


#24
unariciflocos

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Haven't updated this in quite a while. Car lost spark last year in August, changed 3 ECUs, 2Ign amps,but couldn't get it to start again. This gave me the motivation to build the loom for the VEMS ECU I had bought some months back. After a week knitting wires I managed to start the car and also took the opportunity to try out my DIY throttle bodies.


https://lh3.googleus...0415_191149.jpg
https://picasaweb.go...697335215645538

The setup now is as follows:
-GSXR 750 throttle bodies, 50 mm tapered down to 42, mated to a cut down Mi16 manifold using 2 aluminum flanges.
-1 bank of standard injectors in the head and 1 bank of GSXR 230 cc injectors in the bodies which will run staged semi-sequential
-VEMS V3.7 ECU with built in O2 wide-band controller and Bosch O2 sensor, 8 injector outputs, 2 wasted spark ignition outputs, MAP sensing, TPS, IAT, CLT, launch control, shift light and in-car LCD display.

Still to be done:
-As soon as I get to the bottom of the screeching, which wasn't there last time I used the car, I will start mapping.
-Install a Peter Taylor Stage 2 cam on the inlet.
-Adjust the angle of the throttle bodies lower and fabricate trumpets and an air filter.

The hillclimb championship starts on the 22nd of April, however I'm not getting my hopes up that I'll make it. Will keep you posted with updates.

#25
unariciflocos

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Unfortunately the car had taken a second place for a few months because in a moment of utter stupidity I bought this:
Posted Image

but have now realized I like four wheels much more than two, so the Pug got some attention once more. After two engine rebuilds this spring/summer it's finally running and running fine in the above configuration. The Vems ECU is ace, did some closed loop tuning on the street since we don't have a rolling road around.

Some pictures from my last race:Posted Image
Posted Image

The Hankook R S2 seem to wear out unbelievably fast, only put 2000 kms on them and they're past 50% tread wear. Granted the grip is incredible, but i was expecting at least 10k out of them.

Also seem to have cured my surge issues. After the oil light came on during the first two climbs, i filled up with oil util the upper mark on the stick, then put another liter in, problem solved. This is with just a baffle plate and a 6 bar spring, Motul 15w50 oil.

Would a mod please move this to Trackday/race/rally prep, I know it's not huge spec, but this is its purpose and this is what it's being used for. :)

Edited by unariciflocos, 19 July 2012 - 12:00 PM.


#26
unariciflocos

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Thread revival!

 

I've been living in Germany for the last two years and it was finally time to reunite with the Pug. Rented out a space in an ex garage, paid someone to bring it over on a trailer, they scrached and bent the underside of the car, but it was finally with me so that was all I cared about.

 

New home with car lift, compressor, vertical mill, professional mig welder and some other nice chaps restoring old cars to keep nice ompany:

2014702222157.jpg

 

I suspected one piston bolt had a knock so I stripped the engine, found the knocking piston, installed new everything including liners, put it back together, head developped a tap, stripped it down again, put a professionally refurbed head on and now it runs sweet.

 

Did the oil change yesterday after I took off the sump to adress some oil leaks. I now have 3 gaskets: block - gasket - spacer - gasket - sump baffle - gasket - sump. Hoping this will keep the precious Motul 15w50 Competition oil inside where it belongs. Also installed a brand new bung and copper seal because that also had a slight leak. One third of the sump screws have torn the thread, so I need to buy today longer screws and retap the ones that are beyond repair to M8.

2014702222113.jpg

 

Took me only 3 days of work to address all the oil leaks and I still have one with my left driveshaft, despite having installed a brand new oil ring from Peugeot. I suspect the shaft doesn't go in far enough after I installed the Quaife diff:

2014702222051.jpg

 

Also bought a new big baby seat and harness:

IMG-1403814144797-V.jpg

 

And a new standard exhaust as to not draw attention to myself from the Polizei. Also got an awesome chav sticker with that that basicly translates (in this room reighns the law of the street  <_<  ):

2014626204506.jpg

 

Todo for the next days:

- sort the driveshaft oil leak

-straighten, pain and reseal the boot floor where the guys that brought the car bent it

-repaint the inside boot floor and the roll-cage black, again so that it doesn't catch the attention of the Polizei

-install the new back box so that I can quieten it down a bit for the same reason above and so that I can hear myself think on longer drives :blush:

 

And after that it will be ready for its first drive in the Schwarzwald :P.


Edited by unariciflocos, 03 July 2014 - 09:28 AM.


#27
Rjuhar

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Also got my new suspension, GHA fronts with 225 springs and Gold rears. Hope to save some money and upgrade the fronts by autumn.

IMAG0613.jpg


Are these holes in the footwell or it just looks like that? Thought you said you sorted out rusty bits. And as for Romanians driving - I can confirm you're the worst - at least when driving through Slovenia tucked inside a cabin of a 20+ ton truck. We've just had 2 major accidents caused by Romanian truckers killing 5 people. It's not entirely their fault either as they are forced to drive thousands of kilometers with practically no stop so they often fall asleep.

But your car looks nice and the road - oh, the road - I will put it on my bucket list - I have to try it once!

Edited by Rjuhar, 03 July 2014 - 11:37 AM.


#28
unariciflocos

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That was actually manure and mud :D.

 

As for the drivers, the infrastructure forces aggressive driving styles due to the lack of highways. If you want to get anywhere you'll average 40 50kmph on a long run. So you have to learn to overtake and be good at it. When driving across Europe I average 110kmph driving legally and with coffee breaks :). Must have been just a coincidence, truck drivers get huge fines when they drive more than 8 hours a day. The truck drivers that tried to kill me more than once were Turkish.

 

And as for the worst drivers in the world, it takes a lot to scare me, but in India I was afraid for my life every second while in a car.

 

Take not it's only open 1st July to 1st of October. As for me, hope to make it to Stelvio this year, it's about 400 km from where I live. That's if the Swiss don't confiscate my car on the way there.


Edited by unariciflocos, 03 July 2014 - 12:28 PM.


#29
unariciflocos

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So I had painted the boot floor with some kind of underseal for the inside, but it turned a nasty yellow colour from white and started coming off as sand so cleaned it and the wife helped repaint the inside.

2014705180531.jpg

 

After 3 coats of Hammerite:

2014712152325.jpg

 

New oil cooler from Chris_Mi here on the forum:

2014712201719.jpg

 

And new fog lights from Mark on the main page(bumper not fixed in place here):

 

2014712202955.jpg

 



#30
unariciflocos

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So I've replaced the top mount rubers and bearings with new genuine items and installed my rose jointed bottom arms with new bushes after which I performed some smartphone and laser alignment. :D Inclinometer on the phone to get 2 deg of negative camber and the green string to dial in just a tiny bit of toe in.

 

2014722191901.jpg

2014722191920.jpg

2014722204932.jpg

 

The golden stuff everywhere is copper spray, I have a bit of a fobia of rust and stuck screws and nuts.

 

After a spirited drive in the Black Forest I've noticed 3 bigish problems:

 

1. Still surges on right hand turns with PTS style baffle and the shallower AC alloy sump. I've put one more liter of oil in to make a total of 6. If that doesn't cure it I'm ordering an Accusump.

 

2. Overheated when given full blast for an extended series of easy linked bends, with 13 row oil cooler. Don't know what to do about this.Suggestions? I'm thinking the engine is running much hotter because it's running extremely lean. Standard ECU on standard engine bar 11:1 comp. I'm planning to put the programmable VEMS on back over the weekend and see if that helps things.

 

3. Bit unstable at speeds over 130 140 mph (200 220 kmph) so had to slow down. The highway was a bit bumpy though. Before anyone jumps at me, mind you this is perfectly legal on the awesome german Autobahn. I'll try and play with the damping settings on the Gazs to see if it makes things better.

 

Is it normal for the car to feel oversteery now that I've fitted a limited slip diff?

 

Also won a set of OZ Ultraleggeras in 16 for next to nothing on ebay, will see how they look and feel, if not I will pass them on. 



#31
2052NV

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Hey mate. I will say now that an accusump will help but isnt the final answer.

 

I had an alloy sump with PTS baffle kit and 2.5L Accusump, it still wasnt enough (im running coil overs and semi slicks). The next step was to source a deep tin sump (i got mine of a zx 1.8 diesel) and make my own trap door baffle system. The deep tin sump and spacer bracket holds 6.5L of oil. Note: you will need to make a pick up extension for the pump. Please see my thread below. Now the min oil pressure i get is about 2 bar..... i still get very breif surge when i come hard out of a corner straight into hard breaking which isnt such a big issue as my car is only a fun track day car so i can drive around it.

 

Hope that helps.

 

http://forum.205gtid...topic=157551=



#32
2052NV

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Also i have a 16 row oil cooler mounted at the very front directly in air flow and mine was also still getting a bit hot. I wired up a switch to supply direct 12v to the radiator fans and have this on the whole time im on the track... Works a treat

 

And its a short wheel base almost square car so anything over 200 is going to be hairy! i did 200 on a bumpy NZ back road whilst running "tow out".... now that was a scary ride haha

 

What torsion bars and ARB do you run in the back?


Edited by 2052NV, 25 July 2014 - 01:48 AM.


#33
unariciflocos

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Thing is mine didn't overheat before. I was doing hillclimbs with much harsher abuse than now without an oil cooler and never ever overheated. That was also with the the carb or TB setup on so was running much more power. That's why I assumed running lean may be causing it. It'll take me an hour to install the VEMS on the weekend and I'll see.

 

I also used to drive 230 240 and car felt much much more planted. May have been that the road was better or maybe the new negative camber is making it more unstable at high speed. On a rainy day I'll put the standard bottom arms back, just need to order new bushes for them.

 

Surge wise, with my previous home made baffle the key was running enough oil. I added another liter when I got back home so I'm up to 6 liters now. I know people will cringe at the idea of 6 liters in such a shallow pan, but once the engine is on at least two of those 6 will be at all times somewhere in the head or circulating around the engine, so hopefully the crank won't froth it up. I'm also running coilovers and Hankook semi slicks. I'll take her out for a spin again tomorrow and see if it helped. The oil cooler and lines will certainly take some of that volume, so I'm sure I was simply not running enough oil.

 

Rear beam is bog standard. Was looking at some new bars from Torsion performance the other day but don't know what to get. Also want the car to behave nicely on the road. I'll also be looking at a new beam, the rear right arm has some slight play even though the bearings were replaced about 4k km ago (by previous owner).


Edited by unariciflocos, 25 July 2014 - 08:05 AM.


#34
unariciflocos

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So, I opened the sump to see if there was any damage after the two surge moments I got, but everything looks tip top, or at least I think it does:

2014802142439.jpg

 

Aaand, I fitted new shoes! They look kind of chavy, but I've decided I'll keep them. 16 inch 7j ET16 Ultraleggeras wrapped in Michelin Pilot Exalto 195/45.

2014802170639.jpg

 

Working on putting the bodies back on and doing some mapping. Coulnd't get a hold of Colin Satchel for a set of trumpets so I ordered a set fom DanSt Eng. Hoping they'll do the job.



#35
welshpug

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bigger bars and better dampers will help.

#36
unariciflocos

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The rear is running Golds, not GHAs if that changes anything. As it also needs to be rather comfy for day to day, I think I'll keep it as it is and switch to fixed platform group N Bilsteins. Adjustable damping is great for people who know what they're doing and can be fussed to mess about with it, but I'm leaning to more plug and play nowadays.

The standard bottom arms are going back on as soon as I find a set of OE bushes to fit to them. The car will be going through a German TuV soon and can't have any bodges on it.



#37
welshpug

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Being golds doesn't change anything, Ime bilstein perform better, have experienced both on 21mm bars, a good compromise on the road but depends on front spring rate.

#38
unariciflocos

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On my last outing the clutch cable that had covered less than 1000km snapped and had to limp home in 3rd with lots of fun to be had in roundabouts trying to let others know that I can't and would prefer not to stop! Bought a new one from Peugeot that I'm expecting will last a bit more.

 

Tried to get a set of trumpets from Satchel but couldn't get any answer from them, so I ended up buying a set from DanST engineering. Decent quality, don't know about the performance figures they'll bring, but hoping for the best. They sit very close to the slam panel, not much room for the Pipercross PX600D I bought to go over them, so trying to re-angle both the inlet and exhaust manifolds so that they point further down. If anyone has an exhaust reangling plate I'm interested.

2014831175443.jpg

 

Now I'm in the process of making the car more TuV friendly, which means in particular no welded wishbones, TuV certified components only where safety is concerned so, last night I installed thse:

 

New Febi Bilstein wishbones. These were chosen because they're a quality item that's not ridiculously priced at 67 quid a corner. For some strange reason the left was different fro the right even though all part numbers matched. The right one is much more bulkier, reinforced and weighs in at 700g more than the left one which looks like any other wishbones I've seen until now. Tried contacting the supplier to get two identical ones but they were being difficult so in the end I just gave up and said it can't impact the performance of the car so I'll just isntall them as they are.

20141001014000.jpg

 

Almost horizontal with the new Eibach springs, not ideal, but not the end of the world.

20141001015335.jpg

 

Bilstein Challenge spec suspension with 106 Eibach Sportline springs:

20141001013148.jpg

 

Bought the car with the red calipers, I swear! Not that it would matter now with all the colors of the rainbow everywhere :).

20141001014140.jpg

 

And look how pretty she is now, only about 1 cm lower than I had it previously on the Gaz coilovers:

20141001015302.jpg

 

 

Only issue is the anti roll bar seems to be rubbing on the left wishbone and the droplink catches on the damper pinch bolt when turning the steering wheel. It's always been like this, I assume the arb is bent on one side, so I've taken it off for the moment so that it doesn't foul my shiny new wishbones. Is it possible the arb was installed the other way around at some point in time?

 

 

Unfortunately I can almost certainly say it's not going to see the ring this year, but that's the way most projects go.


Edited by unariciflocos, 01 October 2014 - 08:46 AM.


#39
welshpug

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Check the length of the wishbones, 309 ones are plain, 205 are as pictured.

#40
unariciflocos

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There's no difference in dimensions, just that one of them is bulkier, meatier, thicker. 4kg compared to 3.3 for the one that looks standard.

 

Picture paints a 1000 words.

2014907115450.jpg

 

Not the first problem I've had with Febi. I bought Febi arm bushes and they are 30 mm od instead of 31.





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