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[car_overhaul] Zx 16V Project Pt2, Re-Shell And Power Upgrades....

DTA S40 GSXR ITB

245 replies to this topic

#41
welshpug

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A bit more progress finally!

Rich managed to get the wiring sorted so its safe again, and I sorted the Strut swap to complete his PAS conversion on his 1.5 diesel 106 runabout as he's injured his arm, then after a very late lunch did some work in the garage.

Continuing with the bodywork+interior, unplugged the tailgate which is a doddle as the wiring just sits under the seal and goes into the car through decent sized holes behind the rear light clusters.

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Pop the struts off, Knock/pull the hinge pins out as an able assistant (my brother Osian) holds on to the tailgate.

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Pulled down the headlining,

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undid two plugs and 8 nuts, and out the sunroof mechanism came.

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Naughty thoughts of leaving the bugger off :lol: :ph34r:

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Undid the 4 13mm bolts in the boot for the bumper, cut off the two 10mm's underneath, caged nuts, say no more! A good yank and off it came.

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Gave this a little prod, and it fell off :lol:

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And that's it for this evening :)

#42
kyepan

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The shell looks amazingly solid

#43
welshpug

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Its not bad, though the rear ends of the sills to have holes, I have a decent pair of sills on the old black car to cut bits out of :)

#44
welshpug

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Got my brother to give me a hand fitting the sunroof mechanism and vacuum a few bits.

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Stuck the strengthening piece back down onto the headlining, then lifted it up into place.

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Went to remove the seatbelt clasps that sit under the seat seat.

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OH COCK.

so I just carried on with fitting the rest of the trim, dozens of different bloody screw types! nightmare trying to remember where they all go :wacko:

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got it all done, fitted rear light clusters, then popped the parcel shelf in, cool rear sunblind integrated into it.

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Dropped the rear seat back in, simply drops into two brackets welded on either side, has a bar running across the bottom of the seat.

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that was yesterday...

#45
welshpug

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Today, finished assembling the dash and fitted the passenger seat.

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Had a quick peek underneath, the bottom of the seatbelt bolts are visible, hence why they are rusty and seized :angry:

will have a go at drilling and tapping, but if all else fails they are the same thread as a standard harness backplate, 7/16 UNF x 20TPI.

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All the brakelines underneath look rotty as hell, this one is actually damp!

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I did re-pipe the old black car some 18 months ago from the base of the buklhead back, so should be able to salvage them.

Pushed it all the way back in the garage, then jacked the front up, will tinker along a bit more later.

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#46
welshpug

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It's a bit crusty up front, thankfully not the body, 16mm socket just slipped straight around the balljoint pinch bolt :blink:

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not to worry, as the stuff on the other car was painted when I had it apart last time.

#47
MiniGibbo

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Great progress on the interior..!

A stud extractor and some plus gas should see the snapped belt bolt out.. Same with the hubs bolts.

You using the hubs off your old donar or refurbing these.?

#48
welshpug

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not to worry, as the stuff on the other car was painted when I had it apart last time.


DERP :P

#49
welshpug

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Today's progress:

Seeing as I wont be using this lot and it was looking to want to put up a fight, I did it the easy way, 4 bolts two nuts each side, chop the brake lines as they looked grotty as hell and unplug the ABS Leads.

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Removed the alternator and unbolted the AUX bracket from the block, remove the two nuts from the hard pipe bracket on the bellhousing.

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Drained the oil and whipped the shafts out, history of the engine is unknown, other than the shell has 120k on it, I think its safe to assume the HG had gone!

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#50
welshpug

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Sling a Towrope around the engine+box, take up the slack with the trusty manual engine crane, remove the last nut from the transmission end...

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Jack the car up slightly, remove axle stands, and drop the car down.

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SO much easier than trying to wind that crane up and down!

Pull the engine out and push the car back into the garage on the jack.

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One emptier engine bay.

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Going to extend these cables and relocate them across the top of the bulkhead, as they run across the bulkhead stiffener along with the 3 brake pipes, having seen how hot the RFS exhaust manifold gets when I was down at Alvin Powells with Dan and Sandy for Mapping in his 205,and having the wiring loom grommet melt and smoke away, I think it'll be a wise move to replicate the 306 here!

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#51
welshpug

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Having thought that'll do for today, went back to the house for some coffee and late lunch, got a call from Dan (DCC) asking where I was, as he was outside :lol:

He had a present for me :D

Pete (MadScientist) had mentioned a few weeks ago that he had a Satchel DCOE pattern inlet that he wasn't using due to the angle not suiting a 205, however as the ZX is somewhat longer in the bonnet department may be of use, conveniently Pete was in Cardiff on a Stag weekend and Dan was passing and picked the inlet up from Pete who had kindly bought it along :D as Dan now works down west Wales he hadn't had a chance to pop up for a few weeks, and given it was raining today wasn't going to work on his 205.

Slung a couple of bolts in quickly and popped it in place on the old Black car.

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looks great....

AH.....


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DOH! the bonnet does close if I slacken the nuts and let the manifold tilt downards a little, but no chance of getting a filter on :(

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Tons of space around them though, and I think this might work in a 306.

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HMMMM


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#52
stu8v

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Angle the trumpets down slightly, job done :-)

#53
chipstick

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Angle the trumpets down slightly, job done :-)


Not ideal for flow though.

Lower the engine :lol:

#54
stu8v

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Not ideal for flow though.

Lower the engine :lol:


True, doubt you would/could measure the differance though.

Plus it aint no race car...

#55
chipstick

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People have done. There's pages of discussions about inlet lengths and test findings on here, let alone the trumpets directing air at an angle to the butterflies.

It's something I have no knowledge on at all per se, but from speaking to Sandy and seeing two different trumpets tested back to back on an engine dyno and discovering the differences surprised me. From that, I imagine a trumpet angle would also make a difference which could be avoided.



#56
welshpug

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altering trumpet angle will not help much in getting a filter on, so I am now helping my brother take some measurements and are CAD'ing the inlet up to see where on the original one the flanges could be mounted for better clearance.

Plus it aint no race car...


Says who? and why does that matter?

:P

#57
stu8v

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altering trumpet angle will not help much in getting a filter on, so I am now helping my brother take some measurements and are CAD'ing the inlet up to see where on the original one the flanges could be mounted for better clearance.



Says who? and why does that matter?

:P


I dont see a number on the door...... ;)

#58
welshpug

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Hasnt got the right door on yet :P

#59
allye

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Going to extend these cables and relocate them across the top of the bulkhead, as they run across the bulkhead stiffener along with the 3 brake pipes, having seen how hot the RFS exhaust manifold gets when I was down at Alvin Powells with Dan and Sandy for Mapping in his 205,and having the wiring loom grommet melt and smoke away, I think it'll be a wise move to replicate the 306 here!


Good idea! I melted a couple bungs on the bulkhead on the Rallye as it was a base model shell, thus no heat shield. I covered the bulkhead in heat reflective material which helped cabin temperatures too (think I used bike fairing heat material and heat reflective tape, stuck really well)

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#60
welshpug

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Now then, this is what me and my brother have been up to this evening, he was piloting the computer, I did the measuring.

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Bonnet angle hasn't been measured yet, but we know the trumpets touch at the moment.

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rough guesstimate so far is that the flange needs to be at about 155mm, its currently at 95mm.

Valve to head flange short side is roughly 70mm, inlet is roughly 300mm total.



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