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[car_restoration] 405 T16 Restoration


355 replies to this topic

#41
B1ack_Mi16

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Thanks Peter.

The pins are parallell indeed, but why upgrade to tapered ones?
Anyway if I recall Ziga correct he said the uprated ones also were parallell but with thicker walls.

About the rack I don't totally get which seals you talk about, is it within the part that has all the hydraulic pipes connected to it?

About the oil pipe, it was bashed to death, I will use one from a diesel which has an o-ring and is easier to put in and out, hopefully it will work, but haven't looked into it too much yet.

I thought you were following the thread on the T16 forum btw., but guess you're not much active on there anymore.

Are you still selling the sump extender kits?



QUOTE (petert @ Oct 17 2011, 02:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nice work. I've been missing this as I haven't been logging on.

Gudgeon pins for turbo engines are sometimes parallel rather than tapered. So upgrade if you're going to make big hp.

I've been able to buy pinion seal kits (thanks Jeff) for the steering rack. They come with upper, lower and stack seals. It's quite easy to remove the upper seal if you have a lathe and a four jaw chuck. Set it up on centre then, rotate chuck by hand with a sharp and pointy tool to remove the swaging. The swaging retains the hardened steel washer. The same kit fits 205. I'd never refit a rack now without changing the seals.

The oil return pipe is a bugger to remove from the block. It's only pressed in. Heat will help. You really need to make a tool from aluminium that fits down the centre, which you can hit with a hammer, for both removing and installing.



#42
petert1345402284

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sorry, I meant if you had taper pins upgrade them to parallel.

the pinion seal is in the top, as pictured.

yes, still have the pump extenders

Attached Files



#43
B1ack_Mi16

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Ok, good, I'll have one of those extenders then, probably december time when I can get some extra payment smile.gif

This project just seem to suck my wallet empty too early each month!

Btw, regarding the pins, I called the Wiseco dealer and he said that 500bhp was not a problem at all with the standard pins that comes with the piston set. So I guess it's not necessary to upgrade them then smile.gif

Edited by B1ack_Mi16, 23 October 2011 - 09:12 PM.


#44
B1ack_Mi16

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Started welding again today.. finally after a long time with no motivation for that kind of work.

Right front arch where I cut out some rust earlier...

Welded in new metal in the main member.



Made template for lower outer panel



Cut out a metal piece



Welded it in..



And shaped ut while welding part after part



Started to sandblast the 1.9 rocker cover.. but the 1.9 ones have a much tougher paint so it would have taken forever..

Started with chemicals instead smile.gif



Guess tomorrow I can blast away the remains that'll be there.



Time to go to bed smile.gif


#45
B1ack_Mi16

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Ok, need to look into this sometime smile.gif

now I have worked more on the car and finished welding right front arch and also welded up the hole I cut in the rear right arch.







also had to make a new bracket for the plastic protector in the rear arch, old one was more or less rotted away.



Then I blasted the Mi16 rocker



Painted wishbones



And diff bracket



Then cleaned head a little bit more..



It seem to be bent a bit... so not sure if I will use it, will check out one S16 head I have first, maybe it's a better base for the build.


#46
B1ack_Mi16

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Not much new. Cleaned car a bit and getting ready to turn it over on it's side to deal with rust underneath it...

Also got some Coupe V6 brake discs in the mail today.



#47
B1ack_Mi16

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GAZ coilovers arrived today smile.gif



Nothing much new otherwise, waiting for some people to be able to help me turn the car over on it's side.. seem to be hard to gather people for such things during the olympics...

#48
B1ack_Mi16

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QUOTE (Kristian Sætertrø @ Mar 2 2010, 11:58 PM)
I finally got some help and got the car turned around.

It seem I have to change quite a bit of metal underneath the rear part of it.. will get pics of that later.

Just some from the turning process smile.gif










#49
B1ack_Mi16

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And here we go again regarding rust...

Started cutting some today underneath it.

Seem like it's gonna be enough work for me for some months...
Can't believe how much rust I find everywhere.

Hopefully most 405's ain't this bad..









Also at the front left side I unexpected found problems...
It's just behind the subframe mount.



I've bought two new parts, the members going under the bootfloor.

But the triangiulation brackets (one of the I now have cut out) can't be bought anymore, so gotta make it from scratch.

Also I guess I have to cut out and replace significant amoounts of the "main rear member".

#50
B1ack_Mi16

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After some days with bad motivation I've been working some more on the pile of rust.

Started removing the last beam under the boot floor.



The replacement parts



Started also to chop away some metal from the main rear member, still not sure what to do to sort this out properly.


Also have removed the sound deadening from the boot, nasty job, the sound deadening material seem to be like bunker oil or something, melts when heated up.


Found more rust under the car at front.. left side of the car, not sure how serious this issue is yet, but it doesn't seem good.


At last I started to clean off the after market "rust treatment" that had been sprayed on at some time. Front of car looks more or less ok apart from the rust above. Why couldn't Peugeot just applied this underseal at the rear part of the car too, would have saved a lot of rust problems I think.


All for now, lots of work remaining to get this bugger up to a healthy standard.


#51
welshpug

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my mum's 405 has some rust on it now but nothing this extensive, its over 300k miles and is a diesel estate.

#52
B1ack_Mi16

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Yeah, it's quite impressive really all this rust, but I've seen it on more 405's now, but often it's hidden behind the thick factory underseal.

Got some new strut tops for the new coilovers..



Orginal paint seem quite bad so I have sprayed them with the Owatrol oil now and will let them dry for 1 week before I apply a nice thick layer of black 2 pac paint..

Have also been cutting some more, it will be interesting to see how this will look when finished.



Also found even more rust under the underseal...



Got the grit blaster and cleaned up the crap at front chassileg.

From this:



To this:



Sadly still too many hours work left on the body sad.gif Doesn't feel like it's much progress at all.

#53
B1ack_Mi16

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Rear brake upgrade test one.

This is Audi RS4 rear brake pad brackets. Fits bolt on but requires about 315mm diameter discs. 22mm wide ones..



Might be a bit too much, but I think the A8 does have some 280x20 discs so a carrier from those brakes could be tested with some 283x22mm peugeot discs to see if that will fit.


#54
B1ack_Mi16

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There.. some small progress again..

Got some of the bigger suspension parts sandblasted at some company down town.







Looks ok, but sadly they applied primer to everything. My plan was to get the subframes acid dipped after the blasting and then hot dip galvanized... well.. now that plan is off and I'll just use them like they are now. Will add some black paint to them after some coats of Owatrol smile.gif

Started to paint some of the smaller parts, I'm out of black paint now so started using white.. will add a second layer of black when I get some more..








#55
B1ack_Mi16

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Small update.

Stripped and cleaned the S16 head which really seemed to be in much better overall condition than the T16 one, so I will just swap the exhaust valves over from the T16 one.



Valvegear cleaned and dried.



However it looks quite silly compared to the nice valvetrain I used in the 2.3 Mi16 tongue.gif



Hopefully I can get the gearbox dismantled tomorrow now as I got that nut undone smile.gif


#56
KRISKARRERA

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Amazed you can still get those boot floor beams. That's gonna be a real beast when it's finished.

#57
ryan13961345402285

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Fantastic job you're doing on that car. I intend to do a similar job on mine someday (ie total stripdown and rebuild)
Incidentally, if you're looking for a very good primer try this:

http://www.nwepaints...afroid Data.PDF
I havent found better. I used that on parts of my car that had surface rust on them about 4 years ago, and they're still perfect

#58
B1ack_Mi16

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Thanks for your comments guys smile.gif

Need some feedback during such a project, motivation goes up and down when it's so much to do.

About the primer I'm almost finished by now with all the prepwork. I've chosen to go down the Owatrol penetrating oil route.
Applying some layers of that, drying 4-5 days between each layer. Then adding 2k polyurethane paint on top of that. Then some bodyshuts in areas where needed.

Reason I don't use zink this time is that I had bad experience of that on the 205 I restored quite a few years ago.
The zink didn't sit so good to the metal, so I tried something different now, will be interesting to see if it works ok. smile.gif


QUOTE (ryan1396 @ Nov 8 2011, 02:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Fantastic job you're doing on that car. I intend to do a similar job on mine someday (ie total stripdown and rebuild)
Incidentally, if you're looking for a very good primer try this:

http://www.nwepaints...afroid Data.PDF
I havent found better. I used that on parts of my car that had surface rust on them about 4 years ago, and they're still perfect


#59
B1ack_Mi16

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Is this syncro hub worn, or is it supposed to look like this? smile.gif



Gearbox parts



And how my living room table looks like now smile.gif



#60
B1ack_Mi16

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Not much progress lately.

Have just cleaned the gearbox properly and painted it.



And started building a "plastic wrap" around the car as I have found out I really need to sandblast some of the rust, and the sand will get everywhere if I don't have the plastic there smile.gif






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