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[Car_Overhaul] Will1991's Steel Grey Spruce-Up


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#41
will1991

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So, johnnyboy666 very kindly lent me his crane so I've been able to make some progress over the past few days.

 

I spent quite a while (hours) making sure everything was disconnected/photographed/labelled, but once I had that job done it all went pretty smoothly. The engine stand also doubled up as a book stand for a while, so that was handy...

 

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All disconnected and ready for action...

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On its way...

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And out...

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Pulled the gearbox, clutch and flywheel off and it went into the stand...

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The bay looking pretty bare...

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And this is where I now stand, I'll not be short of jobs now!

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#42
will1991

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I hadn't realised how long it had been since the engine came out, c.3 months! Good news is it's almost ready to go back.

 

 

Since my last post the bay was stripped for painting. I had somebody out to quote for the job and it was about £250 with ME doing ALL the prep, so I decided I do it myself.. Any sign of surface rust was attacked with the angle grinder, followed by a couple of coats of Hydrate 80 and then primer. The whole bay was then top coated and the results are really quite good, it all paid off!

 

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I then started putting some stuff back on the car to help free up some space in the workshop at home! Servo got a lick of paint and went back in, as did a new Peugeot OS engine mount, new clutch cable (speedo and accel weren't replaced long ago) and the loom was unwrapped before being treated to new conduit throughout. Repro stickers were also applied.

 

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I'd had a new set of Valeo tail lights for Christmas which, as has been discussed elsewhere, come with smoked rather than white indicator lenses. Anyway, they're far more vibrant and I think they look ace against the Steel Grey. The backing in the originals was in pretty poor condition as can be seen below.

 

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I had a local place, Langley Coatings, do some powder coating on a few bits as well as blast my manifold and battery tray for me last week. They turned it round in <24 hours and the price was pretty reasonable too. This meant I could put my Siems back together with new Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited bulbs, so I'm looking forward to seeing what they're like, I also had a set for the headlamps. On getting this lot back, I put some of it back on the car and reconnected my horn up.

 

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I also picked up another slam panel from the local scrappies and had an original colour match made up (the underside of my original was still the original colour, top side had been painted Steel Grey). The woman at the paint shop didn't much like the colour! "Eurgh, that's not a very nice colour is it!". It's starting to feel like it's nearly there now.

 

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Re. the engine and gearbox, it took me a while to get motivated to clean them up as they were pretty manky, but I got them clean in the end. Initially I didn't want to paint them as I though it looked a bit artificial but once they were free of grease they started to oxidise so I felt I didn't have much choice if I wanted them to stay looking good!

 

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It soon became clear why my clutch had always felt a bit notchy, the fork guide bushes were full of crud and the fork itself a little corroded - the fork went off for plating this week and new yellow bushes were fitted along with a new guide bush once I'd given the box a lick of paint. In other gearbox related news, I picked up a Quaife LSD a few weeks back so the crownwheel was switched over with new bolts and this'll be going back in once all the gearbox bolts are back from the platers.

 

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I had my brother help me haul the engine into the back of my car so I could get it back home for paint. I also gave my manifold some paint and put it back with some OE gaskets and copper nuts once I'd given the rocker a bit of a polish.

 

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Before all that I spent some time adjusting the valve clearances. The inlet gaps were all pretty good at 0.24mm but the exhausts were all 0.43-0.45mm, which according to the Haynes is fine but I'd been doing some reading on here and aussiefrogs that the engine ran nicer towards the bottom end of the recommended range at 0.35mm, or somewhere between 0.30 and 0.35mm even (ref: http://forum.205gtid...showtopic=65817 & http://www.aussiefro...clearances.html amongst others). So, I worked out what I needed, ordered some new shims, checked them with the cam back in before setting to with the oil stone for some fine tuning - I got 0.34mm accross the board so happy with that.

 

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A few weeks ago I had a 1600 flywheel skimmed due to some micro fractures in the face - £35 @ SPOT Auto Engineering, seemed fairly standard from the quotes I got and he was a nice guy. I weighed it at 6.35kg (haven't weighed the original 1900 yet so not sure what advantage its made) with studs, fitted a new crank seal and refitted it with new bolts.

 

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In other news, a massive haul of parts were sent to Electroplate UK this week so that should hopefully be back soon; I hope to be doing the brake lines next week but I'm waiting to be able to borrow the local garage's flaring kit, which should then allow me to refit the subframe etc; I picked up a slimline starter from a 405 at the breakers yesterday based on some reading I did here and sorted a solution to the solonoid terminal differences, gave a 1.6kg saving too at 2.9kg which is nice.

 

Think that's about it for now, should have some more progress next week and maybe even have the engine back in the car for the end of the month...maybe.

 

Will



#43
Tom Fenton

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Flywheel, he hasn't skimmed where the clutch plate bolts up, if you look you'll see it's lower than the friction face. This needs skimming by the same amount as the friction face has been to keep the clutch clamping pressure right.

#44
will1991

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Ah, I hadn't realised that, does such a light skim really make a difference? Cheers Tom, I'll get on to him on Monday.



#45
will1991

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Done quite a bit in the last 3 weeks.

 

 

Brake lines were the first job. It took me hours but I find it quite satisfying and the end result was pretty good - I hate messy brake lines.

 

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I also sent my dizzy to H&H, my AFM to ATP and my injectors to Injectortune for refurbishing.

 

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Whilst I was waiting for that lot to be done I fitted some new brass bushes to the gear lever as well as some new main rod bushes (the white ones), so combined with the PUG Racing gear rods I've since fitted should hopefully ensure the gear change is now nice and crisp.

 

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The Quaife LSD was fitted along with new driveshaft seals with the relevant amounts left proud of the casing (1.5mm OS, 1mm NS I think from memory). New clutch fork bushes were also fitted.

 

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Alternator was rebuilt with a new regulator as one of the brushes in the original had snapped! I also fitted new spark plugs and fitted a nice new Gates cambelt. I've also been re-torquing the sump bolts over the past few days with a new Peugeot gasket so hopefully, fingers crossed, we'll have no leaks there. 

 

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The other job I did was to remove the old gauze from the oil filler, which was pretty manky, and stuck a scourer in there instead.

 

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At this point I was about ready to put it all back in the car, and this weekend just gone, it happened. Very exciting. I had to rope my dad into helping with the install as I was worried I'd lose a lot of the engine bay paint along the way otherwise! The flywheel was sorted and a new clutch fitted.

 

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I decided to fit it without the alternator fitted as I though it might help with plumbing the PAS pump in. Many of you will know that this is a mistake - I then later had to faff about removing the engine plate to be able to fit it which set me back a bit. Anyway, other than that it went in very nicely with new genuine Pug mounts all round.

 

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The next day I went about plugging everything back up and fitting a full suite of BBM hoses and a stainless water pipe. Intake manifold went back with a new gasket, just as everything else has. I need to have the fuel rail and crank pulley re-plated as these didn't come back very well, so they'll be fitted once finished.

 

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Then, today, I set about installing and putting together all the front running gear. Hubs were fitted to the struts with ease thanks to my very high tech (bolt filed down to be ovalised!) equipment. Then it was all torqued up with new Motaquip TREs and droplinks. Looking pretty good now!

 

 

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I then installed a new Nissens radiator and left it there.

 

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Things currently holding me back from a start up are lack of fuel rail and crank pulley, having the wrong heater matrix to thermostat hose aaaaaaannnd, actually that's about it I think. Can't wait to get it fired up!

 

Will



#46
dobboy

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Looking great!

#47
calvinhorse

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Bloody lovely!

#48
Plumbob

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Very nice!

#49
mrfirepro

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fantastic job on the brakes lines, looks great



#50
nomis

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Wow, just read through this. You are doing a fantastic job. That is going to be an excellent car once all that is finished. Would love to be able to do all that to mine. Time, space and a lack of knowledge and talent would stop me though.

Great documenting of a project too.

#51
acox99

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Great project. This forum is producing some fantastic restorations.

#52
will1991

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Thanks all, it's much appreciated, I'm really pleased with how it's coming along.

 

For reference re. my flywheels, the 1900 I replaced with the 1600 was weighed last night at 7.2kg so 850g saving there.

 

 

While I'm waiting for bits to turn up I've been messing with an idea I had months ago. I was really keen to keep my original Clarion stereo to keep it all looking original in the cabin but, as somebody of the IPod generation, I wasn't so keen on only having access to a tape deck and radio offering sound of dubious quality, even with the new speakers I fitted a couple of years ago.

 

So what I thought I'd do was have a second stereo tucked away somewhere that actually dealt with sound while the Clarion just sat there looking pretty, although I still want the Clarion to light up...so it doesn't look broken.

 

What I've done is some chopping up of a stereo adapter with a Peugeot plug cut out of a car at the scrappies, resulting in this... Peugeot female to ISO and Peugeot male, but the Peugeot male has no speaker wiring to it.

 

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What I now need to do is extend the ISO cables by c.1m as I'm putting the new stereo in the cubby hole South East of the steering wheel. The radio aerial lead isn't a problem as it comes down the driver’s side A pillar anyway.

 

The only reason I can actually get a stereo in this cubby hole is because it has no CD drive (making it about 11cm in depth front to back) and is unbelievably light. It's a Philips CE153DR so has 2 USB ports, aux in, DAB compatibility, an SD slot and Bluetooth which is more than adequate. The best part is that it cost me just £17 or something like that from Halfords down from about £150...bargain.

 

Today I put together a really crude mounting structure for it involving 3 bits of scrap aluminium riveted together, a piece of inner tube and 2 elastic bands. It's a bit Blue Peter-esk but does exactly what I need it to and is all out of sight. The only thing I'll need to do now is put two holes in the back of the trim for cable access - I didn't want to have to modify the trim but I'll just make sure it's super neat.

 

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Anyway, tried it in the car earlier and it looks nice and discreet, which exactly what I was going for.

 

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Will


Edited by will1991, 12 February 2015 - 05:10 PM.


#53
Andy_C

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Great project. This forum is producing some fantastic restorations.


Ditto. This is another cracker and I really like the work on the radio. That's a clever solution.

#54
Tom_Gallington06

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Awesome project, keep it up. I love steel grey 205's to.

#55
will1991

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Thanks for the kind comments. The last of my bits arrived last week so this weekend the job was to get it running.

 

But while I was waiting I went about sorting the tiny bits of surface rust on the underside of my bonnet and re-dyed the sound proofing.

 

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I also went over the exhaust with a wet and dry pad thing before giving it a few coats of VHT clear lacquer. It came up quite well and the underside now looks complete...and pretty nice. The underside brake and fuel lines were done shortly before I bought the car so I haven't changed these, they'd have been much neater if I'd done them!

 

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The 'secret stereo' install was completed with the arrival of a 1m ISO to ISO connection. I also switched the dodgy elastic band holding it into the cubby-hole with a proper strap. I'm really quite pleased with this.

 

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Another thing I did, to free up some space at home more than anything else, was fit my new oe bumper, which I've had for about 2 years, together with the driving lights etc. It currently has the original red strip in there but I've now got some brand new front and rear ones to go in, they just need painting.

 

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Putting all the last bits of engine together happened this weekend, including the fitting of my refurb'd injectors which came back with this report, so some improvement:

 

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Anyway, it started straight away and idled nicely. It's almost certainly running better than it ever has in my ownership - although I'd expect it to given the key parts I've had refurbished. I had just one leak from the radiator sensor which I've since nipped up. I'd forgotten what a busy engine bay these have!

 

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I've also fitted a set of the OE buffer shims to take up the slack around the upper engine mount. The pack comes with 6 shims - 2x1mm, 2x2mm, 2x3mm - I used 1 of each.

 

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Next job was brakes so I fitted new discs, Mintex M1144 pads in the front, standard Mintex in the rear and had my ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid ready for a bleed. I thought bleeding would be fine as I'd done quite a lot previously, but it wasn't. I don't really know what was up, but using the 2 man method it just didn't seem to be working as it should. Following a suggestion on here I had a go with an Easibleed and it blitzed the job basically...highly recommended.

 

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I then filled up the PAS system, bolted the slam panel down and fitted my shiney new grill badge...which brings us up to present. I'll be getting the wheels on and dropping it to the floor tomorrow hopefully - not far off now!

 

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Will



#56
HERMAN

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Looking really good Will.

Who do you use for your plating in the Derby area?



#57
will1991

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I've used both Nun Street Plating and Derby Plating.

 

Derby Plating are very good but also expensive. Nun St is close on quality but a tad cheaper - these are who I'd recommend on the whole.

 

I also used Electroplate UK for a batch. Cheap but I'd say the results are no better than satisfactory on the whole. I had to get a few bits redone.


Edited by will1991, 02 March 2015 - 11:01 PM.


#58
GLPoomobile

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First of all, love this project. Along with a few others it's one I look forward to seeing the updates on.

Secondly, and for the benefit mainly of anyone else inspired by it, I can confirm that a full CD headunit will fit in the cubby hole. I did the same a few years ago (mine was also very Blue Peter, and would liked to have redone it 'properly'). You may find that the trim will squeek about a bit more as it's not a well secured piece and now has to carry extra weight.

Edited by GLPoomobile, 03 March 2015 - 08:41 AM.


#59
HERMAN

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Cheers Will



#60
will1991

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This evening was a good one...I drove it! Only a few laps round the drive but I did!

 

 

It would have been yesterday but the garage who kindly lend me tools had their massive 3/4" socket set out for the day so I couldn't do up the front hub nuts. I stuck the wheels back on with my newly re-plated wheel nuts.

 

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Anyway, obviously I loved it but things that I know need sorting are the brake pedal, which although solid is a bit long (so I'm not totally out of the woods on the brakes) and a slightly sticky throttle at the body, so I'll have a look at them soon. Other observations included how tiny, and low it is on its Eibachs, you don't realise when it's on axle stands. Also, does anybody know where this plug is meant to go? It wasn't labelled when I came back to it...

 

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Anyway, here are some photos in decent light. It was looking good despite the muck and need for trim treatment, I'm excited.

 

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Will


Edited by will1991, 04 March 2015 - 07:21 PM.




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