Rose Jointed Wishbones Again

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Thanks, I get it... I think, fractions stumped me at school... I'll send them onto Allen... both rose joints measure the same at least.... 5/8" is almost 3/4" right?

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

Only 1/8" or 3.175mm different.....

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

5/8 is a bit random, will have to be stepped drop pins and spacers rather than sleeves, if I've got a 5/8 joint kicking about there's no need to send me anything, will have a look later

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

Be worth measuring the thread on the joint in case they are a step size i.e. 5/8 hole 3/4 thread. Then you can just change to 3/4x3/4 joints.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

True that, can't see a problem with 5/8 though, cheaper for the bits you need too!

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Appreciate the help... 5/8" is a size you are familiar with on RJ's? and the correct way to measure thread size, please?

 

Don't mind to step up to 3/4" joints, money isn't really an issue in that respect... (unlimited overtime) I'll be working away all weekend on the rally car project.... totally off topic question, but will be taking the beam off the car to refurbish... best way to tell 309 from 205? thanks!

[blandy 29]

Bit of a revival but Allan do you offer this as a service?

 

I can weld but not overly Keen on testing exactly how well I can weld on a wishbone

[camgti 56]

Earlier in the thread there was a 'No' answer. Understandably due to liabilities.

 

If you have a moment to read the thread from the start you should be able to get the larts required and have a trusted fabsicator put it together if Im not mistaken?

[petert 549]

I would go straight to a fully adjustable arm such as Satchall. The ability to increase castor is well worth the additional effort and expense, if rules allow. I ran Grp A arms for many years and it was an improvement over standard. Having 6 deg of castor is worth more than the increase is camber. Turn in is phenomenal.

Edited April 2, 2017 by petert

[blandy 29]

Earlier in the thread there was a 'No' answer. Understandably due to liabilities.

 

 

Obviously missed that but totally understandable though - see the odd few pop up 2nd hand but again would be cautious on that.

 

I'll look into what Peter suggests though as sounds more worthwhile in the long run

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

It's my jig that has made the arms in question. It's not as easy as just buying some off the shelf bits and a bit of welding. Just as big a part of the job is machining the donor arm once the ball joint is chopped off so that the sleeve is a good fit in the arm which in turn makes the welded joint stronger by virtue of the fact that you are not trying to bridge a large gap and instead can get a molten weld pool on both parts simultaneously.

All the bits also need to be machined, drop pin material is important as is the radius at the change of section.

Then fitment needs to be done carefully as there is a mod needed to the upright to allow the pin head to sit flat.

And all of that is before the potential liability issues should something go wrong.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

I would go straight to a fully adjustable arm such as Satchall. The ability to increase castor is well worth the additional effort and expense, if rules allow. I ran Grp A arms for many years and it was an improvement over standard. Having 6 deg of castor is worth more than the increase is camber. Turn in is phenomenal.

 

No doubt at all that this is the best way to go but not sure if it's within rally regs?

 

I'd have faith in the Allan/Fenton arms as the manufacturing process is explained so well but still terrifying to think all that is holding the road wheel on is a threaded joint.

Edited April 2, 2017 by Mac Crash

[welshpug 1,621]

I can't think of any regs for rally that wouldnt allow a satchell subframe, infact their subframe is on a few rally cars already.