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jonXS

205 Xs Wiring And Starting Problems

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jonXS

hi there guys, ive had an ongoing problem with my 205 1360 xs not starting.

it is turning over and there is fuel going in to it

What it is ive got two wires that i cant workout the location of. one is number 32 and the other one does not seem to have a number on it all i can say is that its purple(probably wont help anyone) but as far as i can work out one will connect to the carb, and the other connects under the distributor on the cylinder head can someone point me in the right direction.

 

I have had this topic on psooc and one guy has made a great effort to help me out but we still haven't managed to sort out the problem of it not starting

 

tell me off if someone has already covered this i did do a search but couldnt find anything to help me out

 

many thanks

jon

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GeorgeXS

There should indeed be a wire going to the carb, heating element to stop the carb icing in cold weather.

I think the wire under the dizzy goes to a sensor of some description, but dont quote me on that

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allye

hi there guys, ive had an ongoing problem with my 205 1360 xs not starting.

it is turning over and there is fuel going in to it

What it is ive got two wires that i cant workout the location of. one is number 32 and the other one does not seem to have a number on it all i can say is that its purple(probably wont help anyone) but as far as i can work out one will connect to the carb, and the other connects under the distributor on the cylinder head can someone point me in the right direction.

 

I have had this topic on psooc and one guy has made a great effort to help me out but we still haven't managed to sort out the problem of it not starting

 

tell me off if someone has already covered this i did do a search but couldnt find anything to help me out

 

many thanks

jon

 

Could you expand on what is wrong with it starting? I'v had 3 cars with the solex carb and rebuilt one, when cold they alwas start on the button but when warm you have to have your foot wide open on the throttle and it will turn over for quite a few seconds some times before it jumps into life. Something to do with fuel evaporation in the carb and due to the mechanical lift pump needs to be turned over.

 

These cars take very little wiring to get them started and the two wires not connected shouldn't hinder it. As your getting fuel have ou gone over the ignition system?

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jonXS

ok so it should still start then.

Basically its cracking up just doesnt seem to be any spark, there is fuel getting to where its meant to be. Ive checked most of the ignition system but im not great on electrics.

Spark is coming from the coil to the distributor, ive replaced the rotor arm, distributor cap, sparks, ht leads. Just thought that the connector that isn't on under the distributor, would have a knock on effect. Thus not sending the spark over to the leads?

The wire on the carb would it be a positive supply?

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jonXS

also can i add as i didn't mention it on my 1st post (thought i did sorry)

i have also just recently rebuilt the engine from the ground up. Hence the wiring problem, as it was out a while i had not marked them all up. I have done everything i was meant to.

Thought this might also help give a clearer picture?

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backroadpug

Sound like the ign amp to me I had the same prob and that cured my fault. its the sensor screwed on to the dizzy.

check its getting all it lives and earths first tho. Should be something easy as it doesnt take much to make these engines go.

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jonXS

ive been thinking it could be that, its the only thing ive not replaced. Going to give it all a test to see what is what.

Are they expensive?

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jonXS

well seems to be getting all the required power. So its replacement time i think, another thing though i removed the distributor itself and the housing piece has broken around where the bolts go through. Are they interchangeable on tu engines(can i grab one from a scrapped 106/306/205 etc

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trogboy

well seems to be getting all the required power. So its replacement time i think, another thing though i removed the distributor itself and the housing piece has broken around where the bolts go through. Are they interchangeable on tu engines(can i grab one from a scrapped 106/306/205 etc

 

 

Do you mean the dizzy body has broken or the housing on the head? The housing on the head is standard AFAIK but the dizzies are will have different advance curves etc.

 

I've got a TU3s dizzy kicking around somehwhere that you can have if you want. I've also got an ignition amp that was working when I took it off to breake the car. Come to think of it I've probably even got the dizzy housing from a spare head some where too. Let me know if I can help you out.

 

Just asking the obvious but have you actually checked to see that you are not getting a spark to the plugs? If not then take one out and ground it on the head whilst you turn the engine over. Could this be as simple as putting the leads on the the wrong order?

 

Ad

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jonXS

the dizzy body itself. the bit on the head is fine. yes ill have it off you if you could :) it would help me out greatly

 

 

yes ive checked for spark and well theres nothing coming from them sadly. it has the power running to the cap from the coil but its just not coming out from there to the leads. which brought me and others to the conclusion that its probably the ignition amp (ive sourced one earlier on today though thanks.

but the dizzy body ill have off you

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jonXS

ive changed the ignition amp, but still got starting :(

 

still turning over, but as far as i can see still no spark. Anyone know a good auto electrician who could help me out my expertise is stretched to the limit now. Ive set the ignition timing all up as the manual says. I done all i can do

 

Where to go next please?

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miamichris

checked the ignition leads are in the right order?

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jonXS

yes i did, but to be sure of it does anyone know What order they go in?

Im welcome to any suggestions

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Lan

1-3-4-2 remeber cylinder 1 is at flywheel end not cambelt side

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jonXS

what about on to the distributor cap itself?

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Lan

off the top of my head, top right 1 top left 3 bottom left 4 bottom right 2

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jonXS

ok i checked all the ignition timing, to be sure its set right. it is.

the leads are in the correct order.

 

does anyone know how often a distributor unit goes? im thinking that it could be that that's not working?

could i use one from other models aslong as there tu engined.

 

my dad said could the rotor arm possibly be set 180 degrees out i don't believe that this is the case as it will only go in one way

 

any more help would be greatly appriciated

 

jon

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RallyeP6

Hi there, i battled with my Rallye about 2 months ago. Wouldn't start, no spark at the plugs.

When i swapped the ignition amp over i found on the 3 wire black plug, one of the wires had come out so when i pushed the connector on the amplifier the wire was being pushed out of the connector. Just check those wires, also one is ground and one is 12v from the ignition.

Anyway on my car it turned out to be the ignition switch itself that was faulty, with the ignition on i was only getting 8v on the ignition coil/amp.

 

Rouben.

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jonXS

hey Rouben

ive checked the amp wires they're fine :( shame as i was hoping they would be the problem lol. the ignition switch that is on the steering column right?

 

im thinking of stripping the whole loom back to see if i can find any breaks which could be causing the problems.

 

however i do have a trusted mechanic guy coming out to have a nosey to try and diagnose/find/fix the problem. problem being i work nights so its dark when i get up, so i don't know when he's coming

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A1AXX

hey Rouben

ive checked the amp wires they're fine :( shame as i was hoping they would be the problem lol. the ignition switch that is on the steering column right?

 

im thinking of stripping the whole loom back to see if i can find any breaks which could be causing the problems.

 

however i do have a trusted mechanic guy coming out to have a nosey to try and diagnose/find/fix the problem. problem being i work nights so its dark when i get up, so i don't know when he's coming

 

Did you ever find out what was causing the problem?

 

I have a TU3M with SPI that was doing the same thing, I changed the ignition amp and it starts everytime now. I found it was intermittent, but bump starting was fine, it always started with a push :S

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jonXS

so far no i haven't (im not good in cold weather, bad circulation) i know it can't be much as its a carb driven one. So it doesnt need alot to get it started, like others have said

 

ive not tried bump starting, as it is a fully rebuilt one :S something in the back of my mind says thats not a good idea

but i think i might require to prime my dizzy as there isn't any resistance? But i dont know

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A1AXX

Apologies, I see you have replaced the amp before. I don't think it would be harmful to bump it once.. It does feel wrong! It might be worth trying to see if it brings it back to life, I found if you bump started it, switch it off, and it will turn over by the key as normal again

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jonXS

you could be right mate i might try bumping it after work tomorrow

Maybe even a tow start

otherwise i was going to retire the engine loom and my electrical prowess is not the best

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Frede

Hi, any luck with the bump start? I've been having a similar problem it starts fine from warm (well sometimes on the second turn) but from cold it can turn and turn until the battery's dead. The other day I got a jump start from someone and it still wouldn't fire, we then decided to give it a bump start and it started first try at low speed. Do you think this is likely to be an ignition switch problem? If so, is the way to check this by checking the voltage in the ignition coil?

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jonXS

hi there mate,yes i tried the bump start and nothing

tried a tow start and nothing.

the ignition switch could be a problem, although as ive said before i dont know much on electrics so finding out if/how i can do it, i would be truely greatful :)

 

i reset the timing on the car yesterday as i had a few hours free but doing so the rotor arm is sitting almost 180Degrees out. is this correct does anyone know?

I am re-confusing myself here i think ( is that even a word)

 

thanks for the interest

jon

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