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MiniGibbo

Repair Or Replace..?

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MiniGibbo

It would seem my stem valve seals have seen better days, i cant add the video but its my car on the rolling road bellowing smoke......

 

 

Option one, replace the valve stem seals which being an 8v im guessing is a head off job so new seals, head gasket and timing belt

 

Or

 

Option two, take my chances on a second hand engine off the forums and swop that in..?

Edited by MiniGibbo

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Anthony

Whip the head off and rebuild it - it's a doddle on a TU engine, and atleast then you know that it's all good.

 

A used engine may be in no better condition seeing as they're all going to be 15+ years old, and are likely to command a reasonable premium being an S1 Rallye engine. Obviously that assumes that it's stem seals rather than say piston rings, as the later will be rather more involved / costly to sort out

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MiniGibbo

It dosent seem to have lost power, ignoring the rolling road lol..

 

Also starts first time whether hot or cold, does bounce a little on idle (100-200 revs up and down) but I put that down to being an s1 Rallye engine..?

 

The expansion tank does have oil staining though and little tiny bits of rubber in so I don't know if the head gasket is leaking slightly..? But that would be solved at the same time if the head came off.

 

I'm not sure if I'd be confident enough to have a go my self.. I've never done anything like this before.

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christopher

Whip the head off and rebuild it - it's a doddle on a TU engine, and atleast then you know that it's all good.

 

A used engine may be in no better condition seeing as they're all going to be 15+ years old, and are likely to command a reasonable premium being an S1 Rallye engine. Obviously that assumes that it's stem seals rather than say piston rings, as the later will be rather more involved / costly to sort out

 

Plus you get a chance to grind those valve seats too

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MiniGibbo

I'm keen to get the spammers out but on a Haynes manual "spanner gauge" how hard a job is it..?

 

And would a compression test be a good idea before I go pulling it apart to see if it's the rings or would low compression also be caused by the valve stem seals..?

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tdr_1976

I compression tested my car last year, before I took the head off as mine was smoking. I did the head gasket, stem seals, ported and skimmed the head and put a kent Cam and Vernier Pulley, everything I put back on was genuine Peugeot.

 

It's well worth taking the head off and sorting the head out!

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bondyshambles

I feel your pain....exactly the same symptoms as in, loads of smoke but no loss of power and am scared to take the head off. Mine is a non cat...wandering (maybe like you) can any 1.9 head drop on or is a Cat one different from a non Cat ? sorry for the hijack

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MiniGibbo

Mine'll be completely different as its a 106 engine dude..

 

I was thinking if the heads off if it'll be worth upgrading the cam but not sure it's worth it/if there is even an upgrade over the cam it already has..?

Edited by MiniGibbo

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Daviewonder

Do you have an air compressor? If you do you can buy a tool that allows you to remove the valve springs without taking the head off.

Edited by Daviewonder

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MiniGibbo

I do but it's not a "top of the range" item..

 

Just searching the 'bay for a compression tester.

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welshpug

IIRC the headbolts of a TU engine hold the rocker shaft in place, and you need to move that out of the way to get at the valves, sticking compressed air in the bores wont really work I think...

Edited by welshpug

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MiniGibbo

I understood nothing in your post lol..

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tdr_1976

IIRC the headbolts of a TU engine hold the rocker shaft in place, and you need to move that out of the way to get at the valves, sticking compressed air in the bores wont really work I think...

 

That's right, you need to remove the head bolts to take the rockers off.

 

So you might as well do it the right way and get the head skimmed and pressure tested whilst your at it for peace of mind :)

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pugdamo

You cant do stem seals with the head in place on a TU engine because because you need to remove the rocker shaft to get to the valve springs but the bolts that hold the rocker shaft in place are the head bolts so it is head off but as head jobs go this is pretty straight forward,i would say if you are confident enough to replace the cambelt you could take the head off

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pugdamo

That's right, you need to remove the head bolts to take the rockers off.

 

So you might as well do it the right way and get the head skimmed and pressure tested whilst your at it for peace of mind :)

 

Damn it you beat me to it :(

 

And i didnt even quote welshpug in my reply, FAIL :blink:

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Tandoh

Slightly off topic, but that rolling road is bound to read below actual power, as they didn't have a fan in front of the car to aid cooling and air flow!

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welshpug

not really, all the results I've seen posted are way above what they should be :lol:

 

188 from a standard gti6?....

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Tandoh

Really?

3 people I know when on those rollers yesterday, and they were all below what would be expected by the way the car drives.

 

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Tandoh

Just thought I would say...I don't want this to end up in an argument about the rolling road lol.

Let's just agree its not accurate lol

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welshpug

Really?

3 people I know when on those rollers yesterday, and they were all below what would be expected by the way the car drives.

 

standard or modified? if modified, well thats just the pub bhp talking and the BS has been found ;)

Edited by welshpug

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allye

Taking the head off is very easy in a TU, strip it down and send it off to get pressure tested, skimmed and rebuilt.

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Tandoh

Bit of both. A standard clio 172, with a perfectly healthy engine, was only making low 150s. They are usually good for 165bhp :P

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MiniGibbo

it didnt help he only revved it too 6000rpm as i forgot to tell him to rev it too 7250.....

 

 

Would it not surfice to just strip the head down my self and regrind the valves then rebuild with all new seals..?

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MiniGibbo

I followed the instructions in the manual for compression testing but i dont think ive done it right somehow, my process was

 

Remove all leads from plugs

Remove all plugs

Remove main power supply to coil pack

Remove power supply to injectors

Start on cylinder one and work over to four

Turn the car over until the gauge stops (turning over for no longer than 15 seconds)

 

The results where poor to say the least, the first three cylinders made 75 psi (5bar) and the forth cylinder made 73psi (4.9 bar)

It said in the haynes manual anything under 10bar is poor, but my results cant be right as with half pressure the car wouldnt run at all surely..?

Opinions anyone..?

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