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GLPoomobile

Fitting Brass T Where Oil Pressure Swith Goes

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GLPoomobile

Just posting this in case it helps anyone else as stupid as me :lol:

 

I fitted a brass T in place of my oil pressure switch, with the OE switch mounted on the end and a 2nd pressure sensor on the side of it. Once everything was back together and I started the engine, I was getting oil pissing out around that area. It's really not fun trying to fix with the inlet and everything else back in place (Mi16) B)

 

The reason for this substantial leak is that I'm a pleb! The following may have been plain common sense to others, but hey ho :lol: The original switch has a copper washer attached to it, the same as you'll find on the sump plug. The brass T had a steel washer on the end with a bit of rubber on it. Not 100% sure what to so, I decided to keep it in place, and slide a copper washer over the front, thinking it couldn't do any harm. Seems that was a mistake :lol: With the metal/rubber washer removed, and just a new copper washer on there, the T now seals fine and I'm leak free again.

 

So there you go, just in case anyone is fitting one of these, you only need a copper crush washer, nothing else.

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tom_m

either would probably work fine, but doubling up on washers is asking for trouble!

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GLPoomobile
either would probably work fine, but doubling up on washers is asking for trouble!

 

Yeah, I know that now! :lol: Always gotta learn the hard way ^_^

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Henry Yorke

I used a sump washer on mine. It also had the advantage of angling the sensor away from the underside of the inlet manifold so it actually fitted. I also PTFE Taped around the seal for the sender too just for good measure

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welshpug

not as bad as fitting a sump plug without a washer/new washer ^_^

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C_W
not as bad as fitting a sump plug without a washer/new washer ^_^

 

I've always reused the old washer in probably 30 oil changes :lol:

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Henry Yorke

I don't think I put any on mine as Peugeot keep getting the smaller ones for me ^_^

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petert

Are you sure the brass T fitting has the correct thread? From memory the Peugeot fitting is M10x1. I doubt an off the shelf brass fitting would be the same. I had to fabricate/adapt mine.

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GLPoomobile
Are you sure the brass T fitting has the correct thread? From memory the Peugeot fitting is M10x1. I doubt an off the shelf brass fitting would be the same. I had to fabricate/adapt mine.

Yep, it is correct. IIRC the ebay seller who I bought it off was specifically pointed out by someone on the forum who had bought one previously. There was no problems whatsoever in getting it in place or screwing it in, and it torques up nicely (not too tight obviously!).

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large

Just a quick question for you GLP. How hard was it to get at the switch as i have just found an oil leak on mine and was thinking of taking the manifold off.

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GLPoomobile

For me, it was a bit annoying. Mi16 engine, with a bit sticking out at the bottom of the block (for the PAS or aircon? I dunno :) ), and a lowered rad, leaning back a little at the bottom. So space was tight. In fact I thought I was going to struggle just getting the oil filter out!

 

Anyway, I did manage it, from underneath. Had to take the filter out, as said, and also disconnected and moved to one side the oil breather pipe that goes in to the bottom of the block (not the main filler one, left that in place). I also disconnected the wires to the alt and pressure switch and sender, which was easy enough with how I'd routed them. And disconnected the +VE supply to the alternator, cos that was in my way too.

 

The main reason for disconnecting all the above is that you need some space to get a spanner (22 or 23mm) on the switch.

 

Possibly easier on an 8v, and with no oil cooler (not that mine has, but would have been a c*nt if it did!).

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large

Thanks for that :D . I am in the same boat Mi with no oil cooler :( Have to give it a go on the weekend, use 2 washers you say ;)

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Alastairh

Yeah, agreed with GLP. Bit of a tight one on the mi, but a doddle on the 8 valve from the top.

 

Have you thought about running a Renno 19 16v (+probably other models) smaller filter. Certinly ideal for those running oil coolers, but also gives more ideal space for tilted rads etc.

 

Al

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jackherer
The main reason for disconnecting all the above is that you need some space to get a spanner (22 or 23mm) on the switch.

 

I took an angle grinder to an old spanner years ago which allows removal of the sender with everything else in situ, it must have saved me hours over the years.

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VisaGTi16v

Did you try swearing a lot? I find that always helps when working on French cars. I managed to fit my T piece etc from above with the manifold still on but then ive moved the top of the radiator about 3 inches forward in the Visa so theres a little bit more room but still a nightmare

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GLPoomobile

OK. This bloody twatting thing is still leaking! It's just a drip now as opposed to running out. But I'm not going to drive to Edinburgh and back like it, so need to fix it tomorrow.

 

I'll be taking the brass adapter off and refitting the switchback in the block, as I can't be dealing with this s*it at the moment. Logic would suggest, refitting the switch with a new copper washer should be just fine, but since time is of the essence and this really needs to be right first time, I would like to just check a few things:

 

1 - Is it common for the low pressure switch to still leak even with a new washer?

2 - When tightening, should I just nip it up tight? As in hand tight and a bit more? Will overtightening it make it MORE likely to leak? (Yes, I know, alloy block, don't overtighten or you'll strip the threads)

3 - Are there any products that can be used to make it less prone to leaking? Like thread lock etc?

4 - PTFE tape. How should I apply it? Put it on the sender before fitting? Put it at the base where it butts against the block when tight? Or wrap it around once in place?

 

Thanks

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craig f90
OK. This bloody twatting thing is still leaking! It's just a drip now as opposed to running out. But I'm not going to drive to Edinburgh and back like it, so need to fix it tomorrow.

 

I'll be taking the brass adapter off and refitting the switchback in the block, as I can't be dealing with this s*it at the moment. Logic would suggest, refitting the switch with a new copper washer should be just fine, but since time is of the essence and this really needs to be right first time, I would like to just check a few things:

 

1 - Is it common for the low pressure switch to still leak even with a new washer?

2 - When tightening, should I just nip it up tight? As in hand tight and a bit more? Will overtightening it make it MORE likely to leak? (Yes, I know, alloy block, don't overtighten or you'll strip the threads)

3 - Are there any products that can be used to make it less prone to leaking? Like thread lock etc?

4 - PTFE tape. How should I apply it? Put it on the sender before fitting? Put it at the base where it butts against the block when tight? Or wrap it around once in place?

 

Thanks

Youve probably figured this out by now, but wrap the PTFE around the threads before fitting the switch.

Either way i hope you sort it and have a good, safe trip.

Craig.

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daveyboyblack

I'm about to try to do a similar thing on my Mi16.... take out the gauge sender, and refit using a T-Piece and a separate low pressure switch to go to a new LED warning light on the dash, along with a better gauge.

 

Am I right in thinking I need:

 

M10 x 1.0 male - female adaptor (Two 1/8NPT female ports)

New copper washers

Suitable 1/8NPT pressure switch (probably 25psi), and a suitable 1/8NPT sender

New Gauge

Suitable LED

Some wires!

 

Can anyone give some guidance on the above? I've done a search and seen a couple of people have done this before but i'm getting a bit confused (trust me it's easy!) with what thread sizes and wiring etc.

 

The basic aim is to get a more accurate oil pressure gauge on the mi, and also a much brighter bigger warning LED, that comes on at a reasonably low pressure...something that I would notice if I was on track and having low oil pressue issues.

 

Any advice is much appreciated :D

Cheers

Dave

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philfingers

My kit came today from Merlin Motorsports

 

It's a M10 x 1.0 T piece. this has M10 male, M10 female and 1/8 NPT female (TP-M10x1 £6.25)

Adaptor 1/8 NPT male to 1/8 BSP male (ADP-1/8NPT £1.95)

 

Funny thing is the M10 male is tapered, not parallel. The std gauge sender is Parallel thread. I have an old RedeX 100 psi gauge and line I was going to use but went for the Mocal one instead (which hasn't arrived as they missed it off the order!).

 

I tried the T piece into the block earlier and it went in ok, but doesn't screw all the way in due to the taper. The std sender did and had a copper washer too. T piece is steel, not brass. Haven't tried the std sender in the other (female) end yet.

 

Also got a thermostatic sandwich plate to use with a proper cooler. Will try and post some pics up tomorrow. Access is easy as there's no rad, cowling in place yet. I use an additional light wired up to the std oil pressure switch, nice and bright to see. My old fiesta used a landrover stoplight, plenty bright enough!

 

Phil

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GLPoomobile
I tried the T piece into the block earlier and it went in ok, but doesn't screw all the way in due to the taper. The std sender did and had a copper washer too. T piece is steel, not brass. Haven't tried the std sender in the other (female) end yet.

 

Also got a thermostatic sandwich plate to use with a proper cooler. Will try and post some pics up tomorrow. Access is easy as there's no rad, cowling in place yet. I use an additional light wired up to the std oil pressure switch, nice and bright to see. My old fiesta used a landrover stoplight, plenty bright enough!

 

Phil

 

IIRC mine didn't look as though it went in flush like the original sender did. I'm pretty sure I left off the steel washer that came with my T (thick washer with a bit of rubber on the inside) and just used a new copper crush washer. Since refitting mine and using PTFE plumbers tape on the tread, it hasn't leaked at all.

 

One thing to look out for with this, is that if you are keeping the OE pressure sensor in the standard place, and adding another sesor to the side of the T, it can be tricky fitting it all in and tightening the T. As you turn the T to tighten it, it will bring the 2nd sensor in to line with the OE sensor, and there isn't room for the 2. Likewise at the other side you have the engine mount in the way. Luckily I was able to position mine so that it was not too loose and not too tight and with the 2 sensors just clearing each other.

Edited by GLPoomobile

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philfingers

I fitted my T peice tonight.

As mentioned before:-

std (8v) oil pressure gauge sender goes into M10x1.0 female (parallel thread) on T piece, I used a brass washer. 1/8 NPT female port on side usesa 1/8 BSP male (parallel) to 1/8 NPT female (taper) adaptor to go to oil line. M10x1.0 taper male thread goes into block.

pics here if you wish

http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z143/oi...%20Rally%20Car/

Phil

Edited by philfingers

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