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Wheel Bearing Information


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39 replies to this topic

#21
jimmi

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I'm looking for an assembly drawing or pics to make sure I'm fiiting the spacer disc the correct way round before sliding on new rear bearing/hub assembly ( ie: the big washer  which goes onto stub pin before the hub ) - Am I correct in thinking that the bearing seal mates up against this disc /washer which has a ridge on one side  ?



#22
allanallen

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Spot on, I've never had any problems with BRT boxed bearing whatever their manufacturer.

#23
jimmi

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Specifically what brand is stamped on them, I fitted a disc rear hub on a 205 last week in a random motorfactor branded box, (can't remember which brand, supplied by the customer)    It was stamped SKF.

 

It was quite a damn tight fit!   came with the nut, but no grease cap.

Welshpug - I'm in the middle of fitting Grp. N stub pins and new rear bubs/bearings - the new baering has a removable hard  plastic disc/cover on the rear /around the rear rubber seal - I assume this is only a packaging  / cover to  protect the rubber seal in transit  or do I fit the near hub with this plastic disc on the rear of the hub/bearing ?



#24
allanallen

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Sounds like packaging to me

#25
Tom Fenton

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Yep packaging, remove and discard, it's to stop the weight of the hub/bearing squashing the rubber seal whilst the bearing is sat on s shelf.

#26
jimmi

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Cheers  men - as I thought - just making sure !



#27
jimmi

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what is the correct torque-ing up procedure  /torque figures when fitting new 1.9 axle pins and  new bearings ? Is it ok to torque up with new bearing in situ to pull the pin fully home  or should pin be tightened fully home before bearing is fitted ?



#28
Tom Fenton

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I press them in, but if you are pulling them in by the threads it's probably wise to pull the stub axle home with a bit of tube and a nut and then fit the bearing.

#29
jimmi

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Tom the arms are  still on beam  on car so will I pull pins in using spacer /drift  once I remove them from the freezer. I recall reading somewhere to torque bearing up to 200 + lb/ft the slacken and re-torque to 160  lb/ft  is that correct  ?



#30
Tom Fenton

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I'll be honest and say no idea. I do them up FT with a big bar and/or rattle them up solid with the gun and always have done. Never had an issue doing so, although I'm sure there will be a proper torque setting somewhere in the Haynes book.

#31
jimmi

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I'll be doing  same - airgun and a big bar



#32
Ozymandis

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I press them in, but if you are pulling them in by the threads it's probably wise to pull the stub axle home with a bit of tube and a nut and then fit the bearing.

This

 

I once stripped one trying to pull it in against a new bearing, only a little of the threads available at first and its not enough.



#33
Motorsport Artist

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I'm just fitting new rear hubs to my project car. The correct torque setting for the rear hub according to the Haynes manual is 159 Ibf ft or 215 Nm. This seems a lot of pressure on the rubber seal on the back of the hub and I wonder if the hub would turn freely. Can anyone confirm this torque setting is correct for a disc braked rear axle please. Thanks



#34
welshpug

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sounds about right, the seal wont be touching anything other than the bearing itself.

 

a new bearing will be fairly tight, what with friction from a new seal and fresh grease.



#35
Motorsport Artist

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Has anyone got any pics of what the whole hub assembly onto the stub axle should look like. I've fitted new hubs from Pug1Off but as soon as I start to tighten the hub nut the hub stops rotating. I can't imagine getting anywhere near 159 Ibf ft and am wondering if I've done something wrong? I can't find anything on the forum to help really. Thanks folks. Fran



#36
jimmi

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Did you replace the pins/axles ? .... If so, are fully home in the arms and if you've disc brakes the pins should be approx 132mm in length overall ?   Drum Brake pins are shorter. Lastly,  If you have'nt replaced the pins - have you checked that the pins/axles are not bent ?

Sequence of parts when fitting is:  Rear bearing seal disc ( mates up against rubber seal at rear of hub), then bearing/hub assembly (which should slide onto the pin sufficiently to leave threads visible ) , then the washer, then the nut. 



#37
Motorsport Artist

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Thanks for the response Jim. I discovered that I had put the metal collar  on the stub axle (the one straight after the back plate) the wrong way round. SImple things eh! Correcting this enabled me to torque up the hubs correctly and easily with the hubs still spinning freely. The trailing arms are new with machined faces for 3 degrees of camber so I'm now onto fitting my new thicker torsion bars thanks to Pug1Off who continue to be mega helpful with my build and have just built my new 240bhp GTI 6 engine. I'm really grateful for all of the advice from people on this excellent forum so thank you again. Fran



#38
retroriley

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SKF VKBA1405 (for a Non ABS 1.9 GTi) can be bought from Amazon.co.uk

 

When I looked this morning they were available at £74.19 each delivered but this could change as I just ordered two.

 

There's a 2 - 5 week waiting list but that was the case when I last ordered this part from Amazon. 



#39
welshpug

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that's rather expensive, probably three times as much as I'd be willing to spend!

 

Carparts4less list SNR at £28.



#40
allanallen

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Have to agree that's a bit dear! Im yet to have a bad report on the BRT boxed 'Korea' bearings at £24+vat.