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Tom Fenton

[Project] Starting My Xu5T Build

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Tom Fenton

Vehicle Wiring Prods to the rescue for the plug then, just need to find out how to wire it.

 

EDIT

 

Done some research in my 306 Haynes manual, as I'm sure 306 2.0 8v XSI's also use this coilpack.

 

From the wiring diagram pins 3 and 4 are common and are the +12v feed to the coilpack, pin 1 is from the 1st ECU coil driver and fires cylinders 1 and 4, and pin 2 is from the 2nd ECU coil driver and fires cylinders 2 and 3.

 

I was also pleased to find that the correct tapped holes are already present in the thermostat housing to bolt up the coilpack on its standard mounting holes, result! All I will need to do is block off the hole that the dizzy normally sits through.

Edited by Tom Fenton

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Rippthrough

If its the same as the Tu coilpack the two 12v pins are linked and one earths through a capacitor bank to keep the feed voltage steady.

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Tom Fenton

Well its been a while since I've posted here but things have been moving on slowly.

 

Main progress has been cleaning up the block, the head and manifold are still away waiting for the porting and grinding to be done. I've made some simple liner clamps to make sure the wet liners can't move, so i can now crank the engine over by hand.

 

35320016123_01592d3dd6_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

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jord294

looks like you used the same tubing as me :lol:

 

post-11467-1212359056_thumb.jpg

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Tom Fenton

Bit of steam pipe, FOC from work! :lol:

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Super Josh
If its the same as the Tu coilpack the two 12v pins are linked and one earths through a capacitor bank to keep the feed voltage steady.

 

The capacitor that is connected between the 12V pin and earth is to filter out the high frequency RFI. Stops it interfering with any sensitive electrical components and also stops the buzz you can get on your radio.

 

 

 

Josh

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Tom Fenton

Well what with other things to do, namely going fast and winning trophies in the Mini, progress on this has been slow to say the least over the last couple of months.

 

Actual progress is nil in all honesty, the head is still away being worked over, as its being done as a favour I can't really pressure the guy doing it as that wouldn't be fair.

However I've acquired a few more bits and pieces, namely a Cosworth Weber MAP sensor to use, and more importantly, a soon to arrive DTA ECU from Danpug on here to run it all.

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Tom Fenton

DTA ECU

36128267155_f446271da3_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

 

Cosworth MAP sensor, 2 bar absolute, so will allow me to run up to 1 bar of boost, this will be ideal, as the turbo is running out of puff past that anyhow. 12psi should support enough airflow for 180bhp assuming everything else is up to the job, according to my calcs anyhow. Will be interesting to see if it can in actual fact get anywhere near that.

 

35736439730_317d5f44a6_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

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Tom Fenton

Well tonight with some time spare and the engine mounted on my newly acquired stand, I spun it upside down and pulled the sump to have a look.

 

With the oil pump removed I started to take the big end caps off.

 

Oh dear, it seems my "70k mile good condition engine" bought second hand is actually a bit of a pup.

 

See pictures, the big ends are not especially scored but well worn out, the mains are scored in places so it seems the engine hasn't had as regular oil changes as maybe it needed.....

 

35320015923_7a64d79f61_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

35958499802_fe68efb6eb_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

35736439890_337a6798ac_z.jpg205T by

 

35994499771_83040397c3_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

However the good news is that the crank seems to have faired OK and looks like it might just need a check and polish and new shells.

 

35286744494_a5a921d336_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Whilst I was dismantling I had a look at the oil gallery and am now seriously considering oil sprays for the underside of the pistons.

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danpug

Thats a bit of a bummer, still at least when you've put it together you know it should be sound.

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Batfink

Tom, i was browsing the magazine racks and found a picture in a mag of you lifting the rear of your mini. Wasent a pretty sight lol :)

Edited by Batfink

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Henry Yorke
Whilst I was dismantling I had a look at the oil gallery and am now seriously considering oil sprays for the underside of the pistons.

 

I considered getting some from an XU10 on mine. I thnk they will just bolt straight onto an XU9 (or XU5) engine

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Tom Fenton

Interesting info there Henry, I didn't know the XU10 turbo motors had them, will have to have a look on service box. I was considering using Ford Zetec ones as I could drill and tap straight into the main oil gallery, but I will now investigate the Pug stuff to see if it is an easier solution.....

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allanallen

I've got an xu10 turbo engine if you want any parts off it tom

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Tom Fenton

Well I've had a look at the XU10 oil sprays on servicebox, I don't think they will bolt straight in, but I think it might be possible to make them fit. If anyone has any pictures of the inside of a XU10 motor with these fitted I'd like to see what they look like.

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Tom Fenton

Scrub that previous request. I've come up with my own way to do oil jets for nowt!

 

See pictures, I've only gone thru with a small drill, 3/32" or about 2.4mm, I reckon with the uprated pump spring this will be plenty good enough. If the worst comes to the worst I can either tap and grub the holes or TIG them up to block them off.

 

35994500051_1cb3a190fe_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

35736439960_0421d2d4eb_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Whilst I was in the oil frame of mind I took the pump to bits, all looks in pretty good order, I'll either get an XU10 spring for it, or I might just pack the spring out with a spacer to achieve the same thing.

 

35994500101_22f480c991_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

I also took the brick catcher to bits and cleared some silicone sealant and bobar out of there.

 

35958499712_a975a4a2ff_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

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gazzamec

personally i wouldnt use that with just drill holes as spray jets as its gonna be very inneffective, astra diesel oil spray jets are they most highly recommended in the vauxhall world, piss easy to fit and dirt cheap to buy.

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Tom Fenton

Why is it going to be very ineffective then? What is the difference between a hole in the end of a jet squirting oil at the piston crown and a hole drilled thru the main web squirting oil at the piston crown?

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Rob Thomson

The spray bars fitted to the Mi16 have little valves that shut-off the flow to the jets when the oil pressure drops below a certain level, presumably to prioritise flow to the bearings at low engine speeds. My only concern with your approach is that you won't get much flow to the bearings at idle.

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welshpug

what rob said!

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Tom Fenton

Well, its done now, and I'm not about to block them off without trying it, so its two chances, either it will work or it won't......

 

I've actually experience of this mod on other engines so I'm not too worried in all honesty!

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Tom Fenton

Well the crank went off to Carls for a polish, it has come back looking much better, and the good news is when I measured the big ends they are 44.98mm, or right within spec.

 

PICTURES MIA

 

Next job is to get a bigger mic and measure the main journal sizes, hopefully these will also be OK.

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Tom Fenton

Measured the mains on the crank and they are on bottom tolerance, so thats also good to go.

 

The cylinder head and exhaust manifold are also back from modification by a mate of mine.

 

Head now has 35cc chambers, up from 32cc, which means the compression ratio is now 8.8:1, ideal I reckon.

 

36128266905_08dcbe4677_z.jpg205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Manifold also opened out a touch.

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DrSarty

Just wanted to say nice work Tom; I can see why you're Pitcrew.

 

Liking the attitude too. You're applying your wisdom - within a conservative budget - to achieve something interesting (maybe unique) with no ridiculous goals. But above all, you're not too bothered if it doesn't work. I like that; it's down to earth.

 

However, it will work. Keep it up.

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Sandy

I don't know if I've missed a post, but I wanted to confirm the coil pins are:

1. Coil 1+4 to ECU

2. Coil 2+3 to ECU

3. 12v (switched/fused live)

4. RF capacitor (optional).

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