[Car_Restoration] 205 Gr Project Car

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Well back from holiday so today we stripped all the bits we could in preparation for spraying later this week

 

more updates later this week!

[steve@cornwall 100]

Will make it easier for masking etc. if you remove the window scrapers, you can then key in the top of the doors and avoid the usual flaking of new paint there.The screen is much easier to mask without the wipers in situ, and when removing those maybe remove the scuttle panel too, easier to mask and better access to rear edge of bonnet (you can see this whilst driving ). For side repeaters I take them off, remove the rubbers, mask the light itself and refit loosely. I found out the hard way removing them completely and losing the wiring inside the wing.

I'd also consider releasing the door locks from the clip inside and pulling clear of the bodywork,avoids unsightly masking marks.

 

I'm doing the front end of my GTi, first time with a compressor and gun but am lucky enough to be able to remove wings,grille,bonnet,bumper and spoiler to paint separately. My number one enemy is impatience, waiting between coats and assembling too quickly and it can be like a child with a Christmas present waiting to unmask it!

 

Good luck and I hope it goes well, waiting with bated breath for the result

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Hi Steve,

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm concerned about pulling the window scrapers out as Ive torn them before- maybe I'm removing them incorrectly!

 

I will remove the wipers- dunno way I didn't think to do that, and the scuttle panel. Also I will have a look at the door handles.

 

I'm not sure if to paint the roof and bonnet first or last- I have read conflicting advice about the best thing to do.

 

As far as paint coats goes my local paint shop have told me to tack spray the whole car and then apply 1 coat.

 

The paint is syntolack synthetic enamel that has been mixed to the original burgundy. Its essentially a 1 pack as my teenager is spraying it and I didn't want him messing with isocyanate paints. I know the risk is low with the correct equipment, gloves, overalls etc but for a hobby build its not in my opinion worth it.

 

The paint is usually used on farm vehicles and HGVs but the paint guys have assured me it will give a nice finish.

 

theres a load of interesting info with regard to paints here: http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/bodyshop/isocyanates.htm

 

for anybody who might be interested!

Edited August 21, 2016 by Telf

[And 15 1 Cars]

I would have gone 2k if painting out side? plus it's drys quick and won't take weeks to fully cure, there are two types of 2k now

[steve@cornwall 100]

As its his first time why not remove the bonnet for a first practice spray? Get all the bonnet edges too then and mistakes would be more easily rectified? Would also allow you to paint wing returns and inner wings at same time.

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

Many years ago (a lifetime in fact!!!) my first sunbeam was repainted with talbot cherry red-that was modified enamel (fleet paint) so probably a relative of what your using

You need quite a lot of thinners to get paint to flash off and stop runs (and if you get a run it'll take months to set) BUT as a cheap paint that your boys going to use/learn from/make mistakes with then it's fine

I didn't have a "show" paint job but for the £68 at the time it was really good

 

He'll/you'll only learn from oops moments

Best times I had with my dad was working on minis/sunbeams learning from him (and fixing things he hit too hard haha)

[steve@cornwall 100]

Forgot to add with the scrapers, leave them off from inside with the Windows down, bit by bit as the clips become evident

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Apparently I need to add 10% thinners which seems OK. I was told it needs about an hour to dry (touch dry) then a week to harden. As far as runs go I'm expecting quite a few! That's fine it's just another thing to learn to deal with. Main advice given was just don't touch them until it's had a week to dry.

 

I might take the bonnet off. The licing factor is we don't have a garage so it's a gazebo with the sides sealed and roof off for ventilation. That doesn't leave us much room to work. However seems like it's going to be sunny all week so I could do it separately later.

[And 15 1 Cars]

For runs yeah let them fully harden, then use a rasor blade and gentaly trim/cut/ shave the high spot you can bend the blade to help if needed then flat back with lots of water and appropriate grit paper then a bit of cutting compound to bring the gloss back.

Edited August 22, 2016 by And

[steve@cornwall 100]

Tip of the day......hard learned lesson! Don't tilt the gun too far to get to edges etc. or overfill it. Just dribbled paint on my lovely painted surface from the pot breather hole. Now wait a few days and get the wet and dry out AGAIN. fairly steep learning curve, consequences can be dire.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Roger Steve will bear it in mind. Hoping the wind doesn't pick up so I can spray it Tuesday

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

All masked up and painting commenced at lunch time...

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

3 hours later and two coats I think we have a problem its gone a little speckled... not sure how to fix this?

and stripey!

 

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

any suggestions would be great, I mean I think it needs cutting compound after its fully hardened or am I wrong?

[And 15 1 Cars]

I am no painter but would think that you ether have to much line pressure and or you are to far away with the gun or traveling to fast. If there is anuf paint thickness on there then it mite flat back with paper and machine polish back to a gloss but it will need a few week with the paint you are using before you could touch it.

 

The paint also could be to thick and need thinned more.

Edited August 23, 2016 by And

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

done a bit of googling seems it's 'dry spray' . I can cut it back apparently. Well all is not lost then - we got 2 coats on the car even with a neighbour complaining because apparently she could smell the paint!

 

The data sheet states 5 days to harden so I will give it a week

 

overall though we had a laugh painting it!

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

thanks andy, I think it was thinned properly, just inexperience really. It took us 20 minutes to even get a decent flow from the gun, hopefully it will polish back ok.... Something else to learn about!

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

Anybody asks-it's red alcantara lol

Fair play to you (both), realistically if you had a homer/casher done you'd probably have the odd bit to rectify-just take you longer

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

cheers Toolie. So how long realistically should I leave it for?

 

Ive said a week...

 

Any advances?

[And 15 1 Cars]

I will be 5days at a set temp normally 23deg C?, so as we, well don't have a stable temp just keep it in the sun best you can,may take longer than you think I have this issue with post cure on composites.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

roger! forecast is sunny till sunday so that should help!!

[steve@cornwall 100]

My bootlid straight after painting with cans around ten years ago. If you zoom it looks very like yours

 

 

 

 

And after a cut and polish

 

 

Amazing the difference a little elbow grease makes.

 

10 years later it looks like this and is about to be re done with gun

 

 

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

Steve cheers for the pictures that gives me some hope. So I will just let it dry for a week and then have a go at it. My mate has a buffer I can borrow. Any recommendations what to use?

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

I'm not actually sure if I put enough paint on. I only refilled the gun twice and that was about 1 L. They sold me 3 L but the car is completely covered. A couple of areas had primer on them post de-rusting and they are covered so I presume we put enough piant on.

[Telf 222 2 Cars]

This morning I've had a look over the car and I think maybe there isn't enough paint on the bonnet. I've checked the paint data sheet but all it says is recoat within 2 hours to prevent sagging. So if I want to add another coat to the bonnet do I need o wait the full week for the paint to go off fully?