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Shane17

The 205 Mi16 Dream

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Shane17

I'd assume if I transfer the shafts is use be3 bearings in my be1 box?

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welshpug

all the same.

 

but why change the casings unless they are damaged

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petert

Given the engine you're building (and yes, it is a track car), I certainly wouldn't be putting a standard Mi16 gearbox behind it. Regardless of how you do it, you need 1.9L 205 ratios with either a 4.06 or 4.43 cwp. Anything less will not keep the engine on boil and totally flatten your expectation of how the engine should perform.

 

I know Miles and AdrianW know the answers to which input shafts are compatible. Ideally you want to put the 1.9L ratios into the BE3 case.

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Shane17

Hi meirion I read your be1 rebuild thread this morning awesome read and will be most helpful nice photo documentation as well mate.

 

Sounds completely stupid reason but to keep reverse next to 1st, plus I already have custom gear linkages for the be1 installed ............. And I paid £50 for a replacement be1 gear knob :/

 

Also am I correct in thinking I won't have to do anything to the speedo cable if I keep my be1? I don't know if knock sensor and crank position sensor will fit though?

 

Cheers Peter I have to admit I came across your take on it on your website and says a balance between the 1.9 and mi are best, I know minimal about engines but much less about boxes, I understand the concepts though. I will have a look at final drives but I may ask miles for a price to just build it for me as I already have a lot on my hands with the engine build. I know you guys are blatantly telling me to use the be3 case but won't it make no difference to use the be1?

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Shane17

13316C50-3CDB-41AC-A82F-2875EDB332AA_zps

 

A nice nice box and f goodies came during the week :)

 

PEC H beam rods due Monday as well.

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Shane17

Another box of car porn arrived today

 

A0A1F000-6025-4E37-BBBC-E54BC4541835_zps

 

Just took the crank up to be ground and debating about just ordering a set of 83.5 Westwood liners, probably over kill but at least I know they are round and higher strength.....

 

Also as my old man got a bit carried away with the wire brush cleaning I decided to paint the wishibones and sub frame which has come up pretty good

 

7AA012A8-8D83-4AA2-B823-D0FDFB6CF474_zps

 

They'll probably covered in crap within a week of being back on the road but at least they'll look nice for the mot man.

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Juttie205

May i ask where are you getting your engine internals from?.

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petert

Nice pistons. More than adequate pocket depth.

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Shane17

Gents need your expertise,

 

I have contacted Westwood liners to place the order for 83.5 liners. They only have standard 83 on the shelf and will take 5-6 weeks to be manufactured.

 

They do have the oversized 205 1.9 8v liners on the shelf but do these fit the mi16 block? Their pictures on the website look fairly different from each other but I thought the mi16 and 1.9 8v block were identical pretty much?

 

So my question is, is it safe to go with the 8v liners or just accept the 5-6 week wait to be on the safe side?

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Kane

Apart from the ribs on the mi16 liners there's no difference. Straight fit using 1.9 8v liners in an xu9j4 block

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Shane17

Cheers Kane I had a feeling they were, I read something about the mi16 ones were ribbed for strengthening but as the Westwood ones are a stronger material anyway it should compensate I hope.

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Kane

I think the strength thing is a bit of an old wives tale and the ribs are actually to promote cooling. Either way as you say the aftermarket items will have been designed considering performance use so shouldn't pose and problems.

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Alan_M

How much are the Westwood liners setting you back if you mind telling me?

 

Also, what's the spec on the pistons and where from?

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Shane17

Fair comment Kane, the Westwood mi16 ones are smoothed and although I asked the question about using the 8v ones I ended up going for the mi16 ones and wait the 5 weeks as they are for that engine! Besides I started wire wheeling the engine bay at the weekend and where the windscreen washer is fixed the wheel went straight through into the arch!! So have decided to do some rust restoration while I have the chance, am gutted though!

 

Hi Alan the Westwood ones are basically £450 delivered.

 

The Pistons are static CR of 11.4:1, with cams Peter is supplying I am looking at a dynamic of around 9.2:1 hopefully.

I got them through a chap called Ralph Pinder I do have his number but I'm not sure if he'll appreciate me giving it out but if you contact omega Pistons they will put you straight in contact with him.

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Shane17

So while I've got this extra time I'm going to sort out the rust but also the gearbox.

 

I'm going to transfer my be1 1.9 8v internals into my mi16 be3 but leave the mi16 cwp, I may also order the quaife lsd.

 

I've rang Peugeot for the rebuild bearing set and price is £285!!! Has anyone got any recommendations for non OE bearing sets? I've spotted a few on eBay for £100, has anyone had any experience with using these?

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dcc

We have used these bearings three or four times - only issue has been the shim for the input shaft, would advise buying shim pack from peugeot

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Shane17

Cheers Dan, the set I was looking at comes from autogear. I don't suppose I could be cheeky and ask if you have the part number for the shims? I'm new to service box and there are so many selections for the gearbox I'm pretty much lost.

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Shane17

Also I'm assuming there is no difference between the 205 and 405 be3 bearings?

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Shane17

So last night while waiting for the takeaway to arrive I grabbed a quick hour to have a look at a couple of bits, first was the rust hole

 

A0AFDF05-C69E-4CE5-B219-BB856DD4E3BA_zps

 

It's in the top right by the seam and I need to go under the arch now and see how bad it is, to be honest I haven't got a clue when it comes to body work and rust but will I need to remove the wing do you think?

 

The next question is the ecu loom, I've got everything out of the engine bay and through the gromit in the bulkhead, I've got the ecu removed but how the hell do I get the wiring out as it goes up and over the steering column under the dash and I can't see how unless I remove the dash or column or just chop it which I really don't want to as there isn't much wrong with the loom except one or two wires needing cleaning up and probably new terminals?

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Shane17

Hi guys I think I ordered the wrong oil pump sprocket, I think the one I ordered is from the gti6 engine

 

Sprocket - 0513 78

 

The chain is - 1033 10

 

Will I need to reorder the sprocket?

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stuart

If its one from an S16 engine you're after I have a brand new one doing nothing you're welcome to.

I ended up using a Gti6 pump, chain etc when I built an Mi16 a few years back.

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Shane17

Hi Stuart,

 

Does the gti6 one fit the mi crank? I haven't had chance to check yet, plus it looks like it has a woodruff key and i don't think the mi has a key way for one?

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welshpug

itll fit just fine, but you need a pump with the right size pulley and the matching length chain.

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Shane17

Cheers mei I thought it might be the s16 one I needed, I've got it for the 26T extra pressure also the chain is 52 link which I've read fits the mi16 pump as well?

 

I just need to source a baffled sump now.

 

Cams should arrive soon hopefully then get the head sent off with them, pick the crank up this weekend then all I need is the liners and bearings for the bottom end.

 

I need to look into bearing clearances, I understand that every engine builder is different with their bearing clearances but from what I've read I need to consider oil selection as well. I have a bore gauge and micrometers but also going to get some plastigauge.

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Shane17

Opinions on Constella sump baffles? One on eBay at the moment for £115?

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