Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
EdCherry

Master Switch

Recommended Posts

EdCherry

Ok right,

 

Got the master switch and going to attempt wiring it in :blush: dangerous for me I know. All of the wire numbers are as refered to in haynes workshop manual on page 368.

 

Basically I've established that on the relay, the resistor spade is going to be earthed to the bulkhead or the steering column support.

 

Now the main electrical feed circuit spade, do I just bridge from the nut where the alternator and starter cabling goes in with a 20amp wire?

 

Ignition coil spade, got 3 wires to choose from according to haynes, wire's 2, 112 and 112a. Do I just splice into one of these wires and onto the relay? and which one? 20amp wire again will do?

 

Ignition switch spade, same as above really do I just splice into the existing loom, wires +AA, +AC and +D? 20amp wire again?

 

 

 

 

Also instead of taking a cable all the way back from the connector in the engine bay that goes onto the battery for the main loom, can I just splice into wire 1/1a which enters the fusebox at 706.

 

Thanks very much ed.

Edited by EdCherry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pug_ham

Didn't the master switch come with a wiring guide? If not I think the PTS Rallybuild book might cover fitting one which you can download from the members area on PSOOC forum.

 

112 & 112a are part of the rev counter wiring so I doubt you'll need to run them through the master switch.

 

Wire #2 is the ignition switched live for the coil etc so you could use that but wire 1/1A direct from the battery is probably the better choice imo because that will cut all power to the car electrically.

 

Not sure what guage of wire you'd need but I'd use at least the same size core as whats fitted to the fusebox etc now minimum.

 

Graham.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Spiky

on my FIA kill swich, and i assume thats what we talking about

 

020_011.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ericdean
Wire #2 is the ignition switched live for the coil etc so you could use that but wire 1/1A direct from the battery is probably the better choice imo because that will cut all power to the car electrically.

 

I've got one of these on order for the track toy, the wire that pugtorque mentions above, is this the brown cable from the distribution block near the pass side headlight?

 

Also, is there a way of removing the immoboliser function from next to the steering column?

 

Cheers

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
philfingers

you don't need bother with the resistor. It's basically there to load the alternator when it's been cut off but as all the other electrical circuits are presnt in the car, fuel pump, ecu etc then this circuits will use the power in the few secs the motor takes to stop spinning. chances are if you've pulled the master switch you'll have your foot on the brakes too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pug_ham
is this the brown cable from the distribution block near the pass side headlight?

Yes, thats the wire I mean.

 

Also, is there a way of removing the immoboliser function from next to the steering column?

Standard 205 GTI's really never had a factory immobiliser so any you have will be fitted as an aftermarket alarm / immobiliser & you should be able to remove it quite easily if you do it one wire at a time but it might be worth looking how it has been wired in first because if its just spliced intot he igntion barrel wires then a different ignition barrel will remove it completely.

 

Graham.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Exactly the confirmation I was looking for for a Saxo as it happens, it has 2 distribution boxes next to the battery, one with hefty fuses for I think ABS and PAS, the other fr the rest of the car.

 

Do I wire one to spade 1 and the other to spade 2?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ericdean

Thanks for that Graham.

 

The immobilser (I'm assuming that's what it is!!) is a little pen shaped 'doofer' that when offered upto a little metal dot allows the ignition circuitry to energise, I've not had the panel off to check the wiring yet tho, it may all come clear then!!

 

Cheers

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blandy

Bringing back a old thread.

 

With the switch for the bottom pins on the diagram marked 2. Which wire are people cutting into? I'm guessing a wire is chopped and then one end fitted to one terminal and the other to the 2nd terminal so the wire now runs through the switch?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
unariciflocos

Switched live I guess, red one in one of the multi plugs iirc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blandy

Just reading on gti6 forum that some people cut into the thick wires from the ignition switch? Is this necessary or can it be cut into somewhere else like the multiplugs as suggested? Attempting to have a go today and then my dash can finally go back in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

To isolate the engine all you need is the switched positive wire to be cut along with the main battery one of course, Pointless cutting into the ignition wires as it just add's to the 205's famous starting issues

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×