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peter

[engine_work] Budget 16V Turbo In Laser Green

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peter

Mine does drive straight too, just wheel spins if you give it too much throttle.

 

This rattle though, start it up from cold and let it idle NO RATTLE?! rev it up a little then let it idle again and all hell breaks loose. It sounds a bit like a nut inside a tin can been shaken more vigarously than you could shake it by hand. Totally intermitant though.

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calvinhorse

Could it be a hydraulic lifter not filling with oil?

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peter

I dont know, It doesnt sound rpm related and it can just stop rattling randomly, but does sound like it could be from the cam area.

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peter

i THINK ive found the problem....

 

Ive jacked the car up and had a good shake/twist oif the drive shafts and the noise apears to be coming from the diff area.

 

So im going to put a new gearbox on today, Im going for a 306 turbo diesel one hope its not too long ration!

 

edit: these are real time updates now ;)

Edited by peter

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cybernck

Great stuff!

 

But I'm puzzled about the engine management.

 

What exactly is your MP3.1 off?

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wicked

Sounds like 2.0 8v turbo ecu... Maybe reprogrammed?

 

Creative solution with manifold btw... What kind of turbo do you use? (don't recognize the flange...)

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peter

its just an 8v turbo ecu, the plan is to re-program the eprom.

 

its a 3" vband for the turbo td04hl-16t not quite sure what this can flow! ?

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wicked

td04h-16t-cfm.gif

 

With 16v head probably ~280 bhp max if properly mapped

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peter

they make 330 on a 2.3 t5 but i think it should handle a bit more. Some t25s handle 300 and this is alot bigger

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yippeekayay

i THINK ive found the problem....

 

Ive jacked the car up and had a good shake/twist oif the drive shafts and the noise apears to be coming from the diff area.

 

So im going to put a new gearbox on today, Im going for a 306 turbo diesel one hope its not too long ration!

 

edit: these are real time updates now ;)

You dont have a shagged clutch release bearing do you??? Have had one rattle not in gear at idle and engaged in gear in the past.

 

Tom yes mine needs a rear engine mount and will renew the front suspension parts over the winter.

Edited by yippeekayay

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wicked

The rated flow for the turbo is 435cfm @ 1 bar. It will flow a little more if the power drops to lets 0.7 bar. That will probably make the 2.3 t5 achieve 330bhp. Since you have a 2.0, you'll probably need a little more pressure to take make you're engine eat 435cfm. The difference won't be big, but I don't think you'll make 330bhp.

 

If the take the exact math, you have to divide the flow in cfm by 1.45. (435cfm=300bhp @ 1 bar), but I keep some margin and use 1.5. So the 280bhp is rough estimate; but 300bhp is also possible.

 

On my 2.0 8v I've mounted a td04h-15t, that will flow slightly less (~430cfm @ 1bar), but since the 8v needs more pressure to eat the flow, I don't think it will make more than 240bhp, so it's not the only the turbo that determines the max power; it's the combination with the engine. (I also think you really need more revs than you ecu allows.)

 

Keep up the good work!!

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peter

Finally someone that knows what their stuff!

 

Why 1.45? im interested,

 

I think 280 hp is about right, but i know the volvo runs 1.3bar boost after a remap.

 

Just out of interest how would this compare to a t28 on a nissan? they make 300hp on a 2.0L

 

As for the ecu, i think ive got that sorted! 7400rpm :D

 

EDIT; gearbox has been swapped for a 306 td one and the rattle has gone!

Edited by peter

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Tom Fenton

CFM divided by 1.45 gives lb/min airflow x10. This number is a very quick calc of potential power, remember it is airflow that dictates power as you can add or take away as much fuel as you wish, air ( more accurately oxygen) is the limiting factor. To properly assess if a turbo is good for an application you need to look at the compressor map and then do some maths to see where your engine will be on that map at various revs at your desired boost. By doing so you can check the turbo is working in a good efficiency range so not jut making heat, and also that it is away from the surge line, and not being driven overspeed. Finally looking at the flow figures once you've plotted on the map you can get an idea of potential power assuming the engine will "eat" as wicked calls it the flow from the turbo.

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wracing

takes the edge off your budget build though does it not?

 

James

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peter

not if the same turbo is sitting in my garage :D

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peter

Just came back from having the boost at 1.6 bar OH MY FFFING GOD!

 

Fourth gear, 40mph and it lights the tyres up.

 

God knows what power torque it is, but it might actually be worth buying an omex if it can be this powerfull and reliable. :lol:

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Daviewonder

Just came back from having the boost at 1.6 bar OH MY FFFING GOD!

 

Fourth gear, 40mph and it lights the tyres up.

 

God knows what power torque it is, but it might actually be worth buying an omex if it can be this powerfull and reliable. :lol:

 

What did you end up doing to the ECU to up the rev limit and map sensor limit?

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peter

Bodged it, I wouldn't recommend anyone else doing the same.

 

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cybernck

What compression ratio do you think you have achieved with a 1 mm skim?

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peter

The 1mm skim would have been abot 9.4 but they only lasted 4miles before falling to bits, the new ratio is about 8.4

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wracing

Does it not run really lean as when you go above the last bin on revs and pressure on the map it just uses the last value. A fuel pressure regulator can only cover so much up :)

 

james

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peter

Thats correct, But an fmu keeps increasing fuel with boost pressure :)

 

Edit; think I'll just buy a stand alone ecu dta 40pro or similar, but I haven't decided on what injectors, scope for 300hp so 350cc minimum at a guess.

Edited by peter
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wracing

If you have figured how to raise the rev limit why not have a go at remapping?

 

James

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calvinhorse

The 1mm skim would have been abot 9.4 but they only lasted 4miles before falling to bits, the new ratio is about 8.4

 

Falling to bits? What happened?

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