Mi16 3row Error Codes

[fiji bob 0]

Is there a way to access the error codes without a fault code reader on the 3 row management? The error light lit up a couple of times but didn't seem to affect the car, also anyone know if the temperature control in a 405 is cable operated?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The ECU's rarely hold the fault codes, even the late 405's never did.

The heater is controled by a motor, Phase 1's are easy, phase 2 = Pain

[Veero 1]

You can hook up a cable from one of the pins on the diagnostic socket to an earth. Hold it for 3 seconds and it sets the test procedure off. You can then match the codes up with this list.

 

Have a look at this PDF.

xu9j2_ecu_test_and_codes.pdf

[fiji bob 0]

Thanks

[2-Pugs 57]

Is this the same procedure for the Motronic on an XU9JAZ engine (205 1.9 cat, 122hp)? I have no idea if it is 2 or 3 row ECU. The 'K' light keeps coming on in my car so I would like to try and diagnose it. Having said that it does not seem to affect the car or engine at all when it is on. There are four loose connectors hanging out of the main loom near the master cylinder, I assume one of them is for this switched earth wire to hook into?

 

Does anyone have a diagram or pic of how to connect it, as I don't want to damage the ecu by connecting it wrongly

[DamirGTI 327]

It's really easy job , though i found flash codes on a 1.3 Motronic a bit fast so only counting might be a little bit tricky , but they're two dig. codes so it's easy to count them .. anyway , you'll need to build a "tool" and for this will need : some wire , one led diode lamp (red , yellow , green which ever color you fancy .. i prefer red one as it's easier to spot the flashes when testing during the daylight) , one std. resistor , tiny square piece of std. PCB board , one std. switch , one thin crimp terminal and two croc clips (not really necessary , but it's nicer with croc clips )..

 

 

First solder the led diode lamp and resistor onto the PCB board , but check first with multimeter which side of diode lamp is positive and which is negative (cos it'll work just connected one way around) , as you'll need to solder one leg of the resistor on the positive side of the diode and then the other leg of the resistor on the piece of wire which will go directly onto the battery positive .. if you have croc clips add one on the end of this piece of wire which , during the testing procedure , will be connected on the battery positive terminal as an main positive supply ..

Then , solder another piece of wire on the diode lamp negative side and connect the wire end onto the switch , further on , peel off insulation in the middle of this wire and solder another piece of wire (in the T shape) and add thin flat crimp conector on the end (this one you'll connect onto the diagnostic socket .. it's just one terminal so you'll need one connector) .. and the last bit , connect an piece of wire on the other side of the switch and stretch it further as long as you wish and add croc clip on the end (this will be for connecting on the chassis earth) .. and that's it .. final product should look like this :

 

 

Check if the tool works by connecting in on the battery positive and earth and by opening/closing the switch contacts... if it's fine ,if the diode lamp works, you're ready for testing ..

 

Diagnostic socket : Take a look down around the fuel filter area , you'll see 2pin green connector (it's the same one as injector connector just this one is green ..) , now (make sure that the ignition key is in OFF position) first pin on this connector is blank so connect the T bit of the diagnostic tool on the pin No.2 , power supply end of the tool on the battery positive and earth side on the chassis earth and arrange switch contact on open position .

With all this connected , switch the ignition ON , close the tool switch contact for say 2-3sec and switch it on open afterwards , led diode will flash 12 code (one long and two short flashes) this is the beginning of the testing i.e. access code , again close/open the switch counting 2-3sec. in between closing/opening , then the first faulty code will appear ..

 

More info regarding counting flashes , flash codes for particular car/system and other stuff regarding diagnostic can be found in this PDF book (it's a little bit tricky to explain all this , so please read trough from the book instead ..) :

 

http://rapidshare.com/files/298207742/Hayn..._Codes.pdf.html

 

Damir

[Veero 1]

I just connected the flying lead off the loom to the orange spade that dangles down under the 205 dash. This is hooked up to the choke light so when there's a fault the choke light comes on. No messing around with LED's.

 

2 Pugs, it sounds like your light is already hooked up. On the loom there is probably a 2 pin socket (like the injector plug) hanging somewhere, trace one of the 2 wires from that socket to the same lead as the k-light and that is the one you need to ground for 5 seconds to start the test procedure.

[DamirGTI 327]

Dunno actually what you on about but the dash K-light on a 205 just lits on when theres a fault present and it can't be used for diagnostic purpose for performing FCR test as it does not produce flash signal like on some of other cars on which i've done self diagnosis without proper FCR reader ...

 

Damir

[jackherer 543]

I just connected the flying lead off the loom to the orange spade that dangles down under the 205 dash. This is hooked up to the choke light so when there's a fault the choke light comes on. No messing around with LED's.

 

Thats what I do, anything else feels like overkill really.

[Veero 1]

I'm talking about an Mi16 as per the thread title, the description above is useful for fault finding with an mi16 fitted to a 205.

Edited October 26, 2009 by Veero