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JeffR

[trackday_prep] 405 Mi16 Track Car

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JeffR

Update-

I removed the rear disc carriers from my spares car which had virtually no slider wear compared to what I had. With the new slider bolts they now have smooth lateral movement.

Seeing a thread on wheel studs reminded me that I had a set of Grayston Engineering ones in the shed so cleaned up the threads in the hubs & Locktite'd them in place.

Also, I've decided to stick with the 15" wheels & 283mm discs for the moment. I'll get some quality pads (Pagid, Endless or similar). If I used 195/50 15 tyres the overall diameter is 3.3% less than the 195/55 15 OEM tyre sizing, giving me an effective FD of 4.58:1 (or 4.52:1 based on Advan's AO50 sizing) from the standard 4.43:1 FD. The downside is that they're 16mm narrower than the 205's previously used. A trade off between acceleration & grip. Opinions?

Waiting on CompBrakes to get back to me with a price to OZ on their 142mm adjustable top mounts which I'll probably go with.

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petert

Whilst they're cheaper, I think you'll find the 195x50/15 is too small for your hp & mass. 205x50/15 might be a better choice, depending on rim size.

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petert

What's the specs of your 400lb springs? ie free length and ID? Interested in selling the spare pair?

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JeffR

Rims are 15 x 6.5". Both 195 & 205 x 50/15 tyres should work OK with them. The 205 Advan AO50's are about the same overall diameter as OEM tyre sizing. Guess I'll have to keep an eye out for a 4.75:1 CWP then.

 

http://www.tractiontyres.com.au/a050.php

 

Spring free length is 7" (180mm) x ID 65mm. You're welcome to the other set-I'll never use them. I've got a spare pair 9" x 400lb as well!

Edited by JeffR

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petert

If my special 6 speed comes to life I may sell my 4.75 cwp.

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JeffR

Definitely be interested in that!

 

What FD ratio would you use with modified gearing in a 6 speeder? (If I've assumed that's what you mean)-4.43:1 or secret squirrel?. Maybe you don't want to give your opposition (MX 5) too much info! :P

Edited by JeffR

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petert

4.75 again, I just need another gear for Eastern Creek.

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Mr Teflon

Looking good JeffR !

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JeffR

Thanks Mr Teflon. Not too much happening on the 405 at the moment. My CompBrake adjustable top mounts are due any day & Peter is finishing off my new breather system for it.

I've been able to put the time to good use though as it's given me an opportunity to do a cambelt change on my GTi6 over Christmas even though it's only done 30K in the last 4 years.

Also I've been working on my Ford Falcon which has needed a new headgasket.

So plenty of spannering still going on & I should be able to get back onto the track car pretty soon.

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JeffR

Finally received my CompBrake adjustable top mounts (CMB1181) recently, so set about getting them fitted. Unfortunately they sent the wrong sleeve nuts & washers (M14 instead of 5/8" UNF), so had to get them them drilled out and re-tapped at the local engineering shop.
Now I could dispense with the bulky standard top mounts & it allowed me to use the 9" x 400 lb springs instead of the short 7" ones I had made.

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I read the pinned thread on suspension-http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s=8bbeca9f13718839b8d10c779039d94f&showtopic=13120&page=1 & found it to be a really informative guide to getting the best out of my proposed set up.
One thing it pointed out was that the low ride height wasn't going to give me the best handling characteristics as the lower control arms were sitting horizontal rather than being on a downwards angle from their pivot point, so went about adjusting them back to where they should work better.

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I also re-set the rear 12mm higher than the front (measured at the sill jacking points). This should also make it easier getting the car on & off the trailer as well as helping to protect the lower extended sump.

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I've set the front to the maximum camber that the mounts allow (I think it's only 1 degree but I'll check when I set the front end geometry) as well as more castor.

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I'll set front toe to 0 degrees.

That's about it for now.

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JeffR

Been making good progress on things lately. Made up a bracket for the Accusump got it wired up and all the oil fill/breather hoses fitted.
However, I've run into a snag with the Accusump fitting. I had Peter weld a fitting onto the extension into the oil gallery so I could fit the existing low pressure oil warning switch into the side and have the accumulator fitted to the end. Trouble is that the bloody engine mount makes it impossible to fit!

 

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Even though the accumulator should cover a temporary loss of oil pressure & feed oil directly into the galleries, I'd still prefer to have the oil light as well. So I have to decide whether to do away with the switch altogether & rely on just the mechanical oil pressure gauge, or remove the engine mount so as I can screw in the extension.

 

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I favour taking off the mount & doing it the way I intended as the mechanical gauge will be slower to react to a drop in oil pressure.

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JeffR

I finished up removing the engine mount to fit the extension. I used a support bar & tow rope attached to one of the shed uprights to prevent the engine tilting back which worked a treat. Engine stayed in position & the shed didn't collapse!

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Accumulator, oil fill and breather to a catch can & expansion bottle fitted so engine bay is basically finished. Just some wiring for the tuner to do.

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Picked up my FullRiver compact battery, hold down box & charger so that's next to fit.

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JeffR

Only a few jobs left to do now. Battery in & mounted on the passenger rear floor. Been working on my crappy custom exhaust to give me better ground clearance. And few stickers to make it go faster!

 

DSCF0914_zpsa2ca0a3e.jpg

 

That just leaves setting the front end geometry then sourcing a good tilt trailer.

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JeffR

Time for another update on what must be one of the slowest rebuilds in the forums' history! :o

 

Since my last post I've had a custom tandem tilt trailer built to my specs. Nice low deck height, elec brakes & half mesh floor, short ramps & big reversing lights to navigate my narrow driveway (only 10cms clearance per side)-

 

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Attaching plates welded into the corners of the deck-

 

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The Motec tuner came out & wired up the kill switch & elec hydraulic p/steering then we got the engine running & bedded in the new billet cams.

 

Just need to work out the best way to tie the car down before it goes for a trip to the dyno.

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MiniGibbo

Just read the entire journal, what a great car.. The spec of the shell is awesome..!

 

Engine looks mint as well

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JeffR

Cheers mate. Looking forward to getting some use out of it soon! It's booked in for a full tune on the dyno next Monday. Just need to decide what rpm to run it to.

 

Fingers crossed everything goes as expected.

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2052NV

I also have an accusump for my car very keen to see how yours goes! what capacity is yours?

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JeffR

It's 1.5 US Quarts (1.4 litres).

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petert

Just need to decide what rpm to run it to.

When it stops making power or 8250ish I'd say.

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JeffR

Would 8250 be safe on a cast crank, standard (peened) rods & ARP bolts?

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petert

Plenty of others have been to 8000+ on std components. Doesn't Ben run to 8500? John Austin certainly does/did.

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JeffR

I may need to slow the alternator if running to those revs especially as my EHPS needs the charge signal from it to run the pump.

 

Does anyone make a larger pulley? I'd prefer not to fit a smaller crank pulley as the engine has been balanced using the factory one.

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2052NV

Ok cool ive got the 2qt one i thought yours looked a little bit smaller than mine (there is no way im fitting mine in my 205 engine bay, going to mount it under the boot)

 

2nd question what pressure switches are you using to illuminate the two led's you have behind your steering wheel? (i.e ??psi=green ??psi=red)

 

3rd question what range electronic switch did you get for your accusump? I got the 35-40PSI switch im wondering if thats a bit high? i.e. as when the engine is hot and idling the pressure is around 25-30psi so itl be dumping everytime i idle?

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JeffR

Not sure if you have the Moroso or Canton's Accusump accumulator, but the Moroso can be fitted in any position, even vertically.

The 2 LED's are shift lights fed from the ecu. Small, I know but I have a few ideas on how to make them more prominent.

No pressure switches, just a remote on/off switch on the dash (next to oil pressure gauge) to open or close the electric solenoid mounted onto the accumulator. The engine oil pressure versus the air pressure behind the piston will determine whether its filling or pumping oil into the engine.

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