Fuse F13 Keeps Blowing

[kachel 5]

Hi all, when i switch the driving light on (one click of the steering switch) fuse 13 keeps blowing 5ampere). When i replace it for a 10 ampere fuse it doesn't blow. But then the main beam indicator (blue light in the dasboard) comes on and the light is dipped beam. This is still on the first click of the steering column switch which is not correct, it should give only the driving light. Could it be a foulty relay? I have already tried another steering column switch.

Edited February 26, 2017 by kachel

[welshpug 1,621]

if its the first click you mean the side lights, driving lights are on the front valence and come on with main beam.

 

if the fuse is blowing you need to check the bulbs, also the dashboard illumination dimmer resistor.

 

there are no relays for the side lights.

[kachel 5]

You are right WP, sorry it's the side light from the first click.

So in the situation as it is now, the side light fuse (nr 13, 5 ampere) keeps on blowing.

When i insert a more heavy fuse (10 ampere) it doesn't blow but then the dipped and main beam comes on together with the side light at the first click of the steering column switch........

When i don't insert a fuse on nr 13 then the side light symbol turns on in the dashboard, but obviously no side light on the front. (also not main/dipped beam)

What could be causing this problem?

I have disconnected the dashboard illumination dimmer under the steering column.

[kachel 5]

All connectors are on the right place and the steering switch is working well on my other 205 so that's not the problem.

What could be the cause that the main beam turns on at the first click of the steering switch wnen only the side lights should be turned on?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Correct bulbs?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Have you tried putting in all the fuses, removing the SL's and HL lamps, and try switching them on etc to see if fuses pop?

 

That could maybe narrow it down to being something to do with the loom?

 

 

Also, usually weird lighting irregularities are caused by bad earthing at the earthing points behind headlight panels, so maybe worth making sure they are healthy.

[2-Pugs 57]

It sounds like the sidelight and main beam circuit are somehow connected, so there is a wiring defect somewhere. The reason the fuse keeps blowing is because 5A isn't enough current to switch the headlamps on, whereas 10A is, though only just about

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

Seem to remember blowing a sidelight years ago and my opposite spotlight didn't work!! Ie drivers side lamp didn't work or my passenger side spotlight wtf??

Might be worth disconnecting spotlights first to try and trace

[kachel 5]

I'll start with removing the lamps and try switching them on piece per piece.

The earthing points have been cleaned. It seems indeed to be a wiring defect somewhere.

Thanks a lot for the leads, i'll work on it this week.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Haven't looked at a wiring diagram but you maybe have to remove the tail light bulbs too, and check their earthing block, (passenger side behind light IIRC)

[kachel 5]

Goed tip! Thanks

[kachel 5]

So today i unplugged the SL and HL connectors. With only the sidelight connector plugged in the fuse 13 doesn't blow. But the blue main beam signal in the dashboard lights up at the first click of the steering switch.

After that i removed all the relais from the fuse panel and turned the side lights on (first click of the steering switch). The same result, it jumps on the main beam signal. When i put back all the relays on the fuseboard, again the same result;at the first click of the steering switch, the main beam turns on. On thing though, the most left relay on the fuse board (thought it were the driving lights in the front spoiler) clicks at the first click of the steering switch.

 

I have already tried the steering collumn switch on another 205, it's working well

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

Has it done that always-might be some git wiring spotlights to sides cos they thought they looked "cool"

Or could the wiring be hacked to cover up dim/dip resistor?

 

I'm asking as relays are fairly reliable, previous wiring may not be

Any "extra" wiring spliced in?

[kachel 5]

Where is the dim/dip resistor located?

[Anthony 1,000]

Where is the dim/dip resistor located?

Underneath the passenger side headlight (on RHD models - presumably it's in the same place thus the drivers side on LHD models)

 

That said, if you've unplugged the relays on the scuttle panel then that should disable dim-dip anyway.

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

I'd say this is almost definitely a bad earth point and its back feeding another circuit.

 

You can clean the male spade terminals OK but I've never had any real success with the female Peugeot crimps, you can not get in them to properly clean the oxidation off them.

[jackherer 543]

I'm pretty sure Dim-dip lighting was a UK only regulation so you probably don't have it - http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/dimdip.html

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

 

I'm thinking as Tom's indicating (I think), your earthing of (at least) the sidelights isn't really earthed to the body, and the sidelight earth is powering your headlights backwards......probably from a headlight panel earthing block.

 

With a multimeter you could check the resistances of the earth wires at the lamps, from lamp to neg battery terminal.

 

 

Or, if no multimeter, you could pull the NS white earthing plug out on back of headlight panel, try lights, and OS SL's and HL's should light up ok with no odd dash lights / fuses popping. If not, your problem's at the OS.

 

And vice versa.

 

I think! 8)

[kachel 5]

Thanks for the information. One question, what stands OS for?

[jackherer 543]

OS = Off Side & NS = Near Side.

 

Not terms that translate well if you drive on the other side of the road!

 

http://www.chryslerbreakers.co.uk/nearside-and-offside-explained/

[kachel 5]

Ah ok!

So i have measured if there is voltage at the earth wires with a running engine and lights on. I understood that resistance is hard to measure with a cheap multimeter which i have. What i understood is that if there is a voltage on a earth wire whith running engine that that's the one which is not earthing well. Is that a correct assumption?

I have measured 0.41 volt on the earth wire on the backside of the headlight lamp and 0.14v on the earth wire of the side light with running engine.

 

If that is not the correct way, what would be the the number of ohms what would give trouble on an earth wire. I assume that how closer to zero the better?

 

And i would like to try Jack's testing way without multimeter but i don't know what is the 'white earthing plug' on the back of the headlight panel? Is it the 3 wired connector on the headlight itself? The earthing plugs are yellow on my Peugeot.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I'm not sure exactly what resistances you'd could expect but was thinking one side a lot higher than the other would point to where to look closer at. (I would expect close to zero)

 

Yeah, sorry, yellow earthing plugs, near radiator, on engine bay side of headlight panels.

 

I'll measure resistances on mines tomorrow for you for comparison tomorrow and if my battery is charged I'll measure voltages.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Ps you would get a small voltage on the earth wires with lights on, as you have current flowing and resistance of cable, so V=IxR

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Too late to start mines in the garage but I just measured resistance of my earth blocks to the main battery neg cable.

 

NS ~0.9 ohm

OS ~ 1.3 ohm

 

The OS should be slightly higher as its further away from battery, as above.

Edited March 1, 2017 by dobboy

[kachel 5]

Thanks a lot Jack! Much appreciated! I'll compare the results tonight.