Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
kachel

Head Bolt Broken

Recommended Posts

kachel

While removing the cilinder head i have broken one of the head bolts. The head is of but the broken head bolt is still in the block. It sticks out with 10 cm. Any advice how to remove this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DamirGTI

By welding an nut on top of the bolt remains that sticks out .

 

But first i'd leave it for a few days soaked in penetrating fluid (WD-40 isn't good , best i've tried is "home made" - mix up 50% ATF oil with 50% Acetone .. and use syringe to apply the fluid round the bolt , works really good especially when left over night or better still a few days ..) and tapping the bolt with an hammer few times during the day can help break the rust bond .

Clean up the bottom of the bolt thread that sticks out from the block hole as best as you can , with small dremel wire wheel tools or similar ..

 

D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Should be able to get it with that much sticking out. Soak it as said. I'd also get some heat into the block around the threaded area. Some stilsons will grip the stud as well as anything. Be prepared that the threads may well be knackered once you have removed it though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GLPoomobile

We were discussing on here recently the merits and risks of using the acetone/ATF mix homebrew penetrating fluid. From what I've read since it seems to be quite a well recommended method, but do some reading first to make yourself aware of the risks as it is potent. Plusgas is a decent off the shelf alternative.

 

I also read an interesting tip recently for seized bolts (and watched some videos). The tip is to heat the opposite end of the seized bolt and the dab a candle or crayon to the other end. The heat then draws the wax down the treads. It probably sounds a bit far fetched but I've seen a guy test it on a couple of seriously seized bolts where penetrating fluid hadn't worked, the acetone mix hadn't worked, and regular heating hadn't worked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kachel

It worked! Thanks a lot guys. I can go on now. As i have removed the cilinder head should i always let the head be 'shaved' to be sure? There is a '2' stamped on the left of the inlet side of the head and an 'A' stamped on the right side of the inlet side of the head. What does it tell me?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Its good practise to skim the head or at very least check it for flatness whilst off. Invariably they will usually need a skim. Whilst its at a machine shop have them check the guides, recut the seats and valves, fit new stem seals and reshim the cam clearances.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×