Wiring Up K-light

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

I thought I had everything clear when I earlier today was goind to wire up the K-light on mye old type 205 GTi.

 

The instrument cluster doesn't have any K-light, so I just bought a small red light that I mounted in the dash.

As I found out the wire that comes from the Mi16 loom actually supplies (-) and not (+) voltage that I first thought. Anyway, then I thought I just could connect the (-) one from the loom to the (-) one on the red-light, and then I tried just to connect the other connector on the light to a positive cable.

 

What actually happens is that it's lighting all the time even with the engine off, and it's still going strong when the engine is running.

 

Does anyone know how this can be done so that it actually will work?

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

thats exactly how i wired mine except i used an led . mine works fine and as it should .i took mine directly from the correct pin on the ecu .

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

Hmf.. I'm also using a Led

 

Ok, maybe something else is wrong with the rest of our cabling then?

 

So It's actuallt supposed to be wired like I did, with the positive Led connector connected to constant (+) and the negative connector connected to the K-light cable from the Mi16 loom?

 

What can then be wrong with this????

[Guest jonesy]

sorry for being dumb but what is a K-light?

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

k light = engine management light .

 

where have you wired the light from?

 

what ecu/version of motronic do you have?

Edited May 7, 2003 by Pugnut

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

I've fitted a K-light to my Mi16 too. I was always looking for a positive swithing from the ECU but Al told me it was an earth so I had a go at installing mine which only took about 15minutes to do.

 

First off, the instrument cluster DOES have a K-Light as I have wired mine to light up controlled by the ECU. It is the top right light on the revcounter. I will take a picture.

 

Looking at the loom on mine (1988 1.9) it appears to have a wire going to it already that goes behind the dash (tallys with a Haynes manual), I presume it goes to the fuseboard where it stops there. BUT I think the 8v K-light uses positive to switch it on as the negative for the bulb is shared with the rest of them on the instrument cluster (so it would always have an earth). But this is helpful as it means you can scotchlock a permanent live on to this wire without messing about modifiying the plug to add a wire.

 

If you use a circuit tester to trace the wire from the k-light to the top where the multiplugs go on you can scotch lock a permanent (well, ignition-sourced) live to the wire on the back of the plug. Now cut the circuit board on the back of the cluster where the common earth was to separate the k-light earth. I soldered a wire onto this and ran it down to the ECU.

 

I found that the light seems to take a while to go off for the first time, maybe the ecu is settling down or something as it goes off now as soon as it starts cranking.

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

Hmf.. The strange thing about mine is that it actually lights when the ignition is off too.

Maybe I've wired something wrong somewhere else in the Mi16 loom?

 

Just can't see anything wrong with what I've done myself.

[Guest Olly]

What number pin on the ecu are you using?

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

The cable number is 74. I'm pretty sure it's the right cable.

 

As I said the light wouldn't turn off when I started the engine.. That could actually (if it really is working) mean that something is wrong.. But then again I should be able to check the faultcodes.

 

I tried to do that but the only thing that happened was that the light just got stronger cuz it probably did get more power. On mye 405 the K-light turn itself off when I wire the dignostig socket to earth to check the codes..

[AndyR 0]

Wire 74 is the K light.

 

If you have used a positive ground from the instrument panel, then connected the -ve that is ground for the rest of the car wouldnt it permenantly light up?

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

Don't know if I really understood what you said.

 

But I have grounded the Led to a positive ground. Then I thought that the minus feed from the ECU (wire 74) actually wouldn't give a signal when the ignition is turned off. But it do give a signal all the time, no matter what.

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

your positive should be from an ignition switched live .

 

looking at haynes the wire needed is no 74 .

 

do you have motronic 1.3 or 4.1 . ?

 

1.3 is a 3 row plug for the ecu , 4.1 is 2 row .

 

i didn't use wire numbers ect (bx loom) i used the pin outs for the ecu i have listed here, but to do this you need to find out which ecu you have .

[Guest jez205]

Im gonna be wiring in my M116 loom in to my 205gti soon, I hadnt heard of the K- light, is it necessary for the conversion and what info does it give?

 

thanks,

 

Jez

[Guest alexdeann]

I dont belive its necessary but just very useful! In simple terms its the 'Check Engine' Light. I'd light continuously if there was a problem!

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

and with the aid of a switch you can read fault codes with this light also .

 

with ecu unplugged , looking straight into the pins on the ecu plug (motronic 4.1) with the cables coming out of the right hand side you should have two rows of pins(larger row on top) . pin 1 is on the top left , pin 17 is second from the right on top row.

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

Ok, then I probably just have got the ignition switched thing wrong..

 

I have the Motronic 1.3, but the green diagnostic socket only has got 2-pins. But there are 3 cables going into the socket. So it's kinda 3 is you see it that way.

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

I've tried it again now. And it lights when engine running.

Now I actually found out that my wiring almost was ok, and I read some faultcodes from it, they were:

 

12 - Beginning of test

44 - ?????????

51 - Self-Correction Richness: Check Lambda sensor electrical circuit, try again with new Lambda sensor

52 - Self-Correction Richness: Try again with new ECU

11 - End of test

 

Does anyone know what number 44 is?

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

Ok, I have found that code 44 is the "Knock sensor".

Does this mean that my engine probably is pinking? Or may it be something wrong with the sensor itself? The engine doesn't seem to pink at all.

 

I got rid of the other faults. I had wired up the lambda wrong, so after deleting the codes and rewired the lambda I now only get fault 44.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

Here is a picture of the engine management light in mine:

 

[Guest CB-Dave]

What's that dash off? Mine doesn't have the numbered incrementing gauges...

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

What's that dash off? Mine doesn't have the numbered incrementing gauges...

It's part 1.9 part BX stuff. The outer gauges light up green and orange with the center standard orange. Looks ok.