This Noise Does Not Sound Good

[TaffyTim 6]

OK Im not liking my car at the moment.

 

Im moving out of my flat and Im going to be paying 2 lots of rent for the next 3 months, so i dont need expensive noises like this.

 

Ive been loosing oil recently and this noise happened when i drove the car home last. I thought it was just because i was out of gearbox oil, but i have put oil into it today and its this noise was still there when the engine gets rev'd. As you can hear when the car is on idle its not present.

 

Does this sound like a mangled gearbox or something more nasty!!!!

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v645/taf...niginenoise.flv

[welshpug 1,627]

EEK! stop now!!!!

 

check the exhaust manifold, check the spark plugs are tight, check the colour and level of the engine oil.

 

does your oil pressure gauge work?...

 

scary noise...

[TaffyTim 6]

In reverse order; the engine oil pressure was fine, the engine oil level was fine, I'll go and check my spark plug and manifold after ive had a bite to eat.

 

What should i be look for, just looseness?

[welshpug 1,627]

looseness and while you're at it check the colour.

[TaffyTim 6]

all seems tight and colour seems normal on the plugs

[welshpug 1,627]

ummm, when was the cambelt done last?

[TaffyTim 6]

Ive no record of that in the reciepts that came with the car.

 

The engine went in the car October 2003, and all receipts have been kept since then so it was definatley before that date.

 

ps

I dont like what your suggesting

[welshpug 1,627]

me neither!

 

It's very hard to tell without actually being there, whereabouts does the sound come from? top/bottom side?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Tim

 

I'll come down to you I think with it sounding like that, drop me a PM or txt for when your around

[welshpug 1,627]

uhoh! what do you think it is miles? i'm thinking a bearing of some kind....

[PumaRacing 1]

The noise seems to be at 1/2 the frequency of the engine rpm so it's occuring on only one stroke of a cylinder rather than on every revolution. That points to a camshaft actuated mechanism rather than a crankshaft actuated one. So something in the top end - intake or exhaust blowing, something unpleasant with a valve or tappet maybe. Hard to to hear the exact character of the noise on a recording as to whether it's gas or mechanical in nature.

[inferno 1]

ouch! found out what this is yet? if it was a tappet, surely there would be a missfire too where the valve doesnt open?

[TaffyTim 6]

Miles came over today and we did a compression test and all was good there so it seems like the valves arent bent or lifting when they shouldnt.

 

When we fired the engine up Miles said it was the big end bearings

 

Ive not got the dough for the work to be done just yet so im going to have to let it sit a while and get it done in a few months. In the mean time Im going to have to source a cheap runaround to get me from a to b.

 

It is really annoying as I have put money into oil pipes, water hoses, ignition leads, and the baffled sump so to get the most out of these I think i should stick to the mi rather than put a different engine in.

[Mikey G 3]

Dont jump into the idea that this is going to be a very expensive job.

Its a matter of removing the sump and pulling the bearing caps off, you would need to remove the oil pump for the last one. If your lucky and the crank is OK all you will need is a set of shells (about £30) and swap them over. A lot cheaper than buying a cheap runaround (unless the runaround is less than £30 lol)

If the crank is damaged then it gets expensive but its worth checking now rather than letting it sit there.

[TaffyTim 6]

mmmmmmmmm, Miles's opinion was the crank will be damaged so its an engine out jobbie

 

£30 sounds like an absolute dream to get it roadworthy again, I'll have a search in a sec to find out if im capable of such a job. How hard is the job if you do it this way? and how would you be able to tell if the crank was damaged or not?

Edited April 29, 2007 by TaffyTim

[Mikey G 3]

Its not too difficult to do, once the sump is off most of the bearings will be right infront of you. 2 nuts hold the bearing caps on, just dont mix them up or put them back the other way around as there is little tab holes for the bearing to sit in and locate. Once you have them off it will be worth getting someone who knows what they are looking for to inspect the crank and tell you whats needed. If the crank is worn then its an engine out job, but you never know until you take a closer look.

[TaffyTim 6]

hmmmm, most of the threads im reading are saying that this isnt such a good idea as the crank will most prob need to be done.

 

I might pop the sump off and have a look when its sitting waiting for some propper tlc, as it can only be good for my mechanical knowlege. Are there any special tools needed. If i look in my 205 Haynes manual will the procedure be any different on the Mi?

[Mikey G 3]

Bottom end is the same on all XU9's (apart from minor technicalities) but for this process its the same.

 

As ive said, and i dont want you to get your hopes up, but its worth checking before resorting to taking it out.

 

No special tools, just a few bolts and some hidden allen keys on the sump and its off.

[TaffyTim 6]

ok I'll keep all informed if i do have a bit of a poke.

 

Get ready for forthcoming thread in the Wanted section by myself titled MI16 engine, following my mechanical ham handedness

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

If its done the big ends then most likely if one has spun it'll need a conrod on that piston & the crank will at least need a regrind but could be bent imo.

 

Miles knows what he is talking about & has a lot of experience with these engines so I'd expect him to know what work is likely to be involved.

 

You can't get the crank out with the gearbox etc on & the engine in the car.

 

Bearings are possible with just the sump & caps off but on an Mi its rarely that simple to fix.

 

Graham.

[welshpug 1,627]

like graham said, its an engine out job to do it properly, but you can always drop the sump off beforehand to have a look.

 

You'll need an 11mm socket and extension, (3/8 or 1/4 drive, my 1/2 wouldn't fit down the end where the flywheel is) and possibly a 5mm Allen key.

 

take each cap off at a time, taking care to refit each one exactly the same way before moving on to the next one.

 

it sounded exactly the same as mine, and this is what greeted me on No4 (directly above the oil pump)

 

 

 

plus side is that if nothing is bent all of it can be saved, I was quoted £20 for the bearings and £100 for a regrind (only big ends)

[davemar 16]

Don't forget to drain the oil before removing the sump!

 

I had a similar thing happen to mine a few years back and it knackered the crank. It would have been regrindable, but it got bent as well, so I needed a new one.

 

I managed to change the crank without removing the engine. The gearbox had to come off, as did the cambelt gubbins. But I dropped the crankshaft down and lifted the new one into place. The downside is that they are heavy buggers and you need two arms to hold it in place and a third arm to screw the main bearing caps back on, while lying on your back.

 

 

Don't forget to drain the oil before removing the sump!

 

I had a similar thing happen to mine a few years back and it knackered the crank. It would have been regrindable, but it got bent as well, so I needed a new one.

 

I managed to change the crank without removing the engine. The gearbox had to come off, as did the cambelt gubbins. But I dropped the crankshaft down and lifted the new one into place. The downside is that they are heavy buggers and you need two arms to hold it in place and a third arm to screw the main bearing caps back on, while lying on your back.

[TaffyTim 6]

ok ta all, I am commiting to an engine out job and getting a regrind, but as stated at the start of the thread I am skint

 

To aid with my next question I have to admit i dont really understand why a regrind will be needed. Prehaps someone could fill me in on this too, ie what has happened for it to need a regrind and what the regrind will achieve.

 

If I did get the sump off and replaced the bearings would this be ok to drive with the crank in its state? I then would save a few pennies and call on doctor Miles in a few months to replace those bearings and get the crank out.

[Mikey G 3]

If the crank is damaged the regrind will basically put a new surface onto it. If it has spun a bearing it will definatly need a regrind, putting new shells onto a damaged crank will knacker them as soon as you restart it.

Edited May 1, 2007 by Mikey G

[Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars]

try a wanted ad, often people have cranks lying about that are in good shape Can always regrind yours and sell it on when you have more money.