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[car_restoration] Project Shades Of Grey, A Complete Overhaul Modifica

205 1.9 GTI-2.0 VTS XU10J4RS Graphite Grey Picture Heavy

94 replies to this topic

#41
pip470

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  • Name:Phill Dwan
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The jig i borrowed of a mate who uses it for his hillman imp. I just added bits of metal so i could use it on my car. It has been a life saver though. The brake disk is for pinning it in position when you turn it. Its easy enough to turn by just me.
I think if i was doing it again i too would either pay someone professionally to blast it or acid dip it because im never doing that again.
This car is my euro trip car, I should really change the name of the thread now though because its moved on since then. `I wont spam your thread though with my project. I will update mine soon.
Look forward to more updates.

#42
SurGie

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Bit of an update.

Now time for the rear chassis side of things, some of it looked fine but underneath the rust was there and if not removed from under the sealant it will only have got worse through the years.

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I found that this car as with others ive had, seemed to be more corrosive on the O/S than the N/S, as with others the rear fuel tank sill areas were always rotten. The 205 as a whole is one of the best of the 80's cars that have lasted well through the years, however i think the time has come where these cars are becoming more rotten, especially with the repeated wet summers we seem to be getting.

I looked inside the sills and the O/S was far worse than the N/S, i spent a bit of time derusting the main rust inside the sills, it was hard. My thoughts were, getting rid of most of it then convert the rust with the converter ive used before will delay the rust. The other 205's ive owned have either had a section of the outer sills rewelded or ive had to get them welded for the MOT.

As you can see in the pictures >

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I guess this occurrence was down to the wet splashes from the traffic on the other side of the road.

More to follow :)

#43
SurGie

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These pictures show the result after the rust converter was applied. This job was done a long while ago and when time came the rust on one side started to come back. After talking to the company that supplied the converter it seemed that i didnt manage to get this side as clean as it should have been. The N/S was fine and has lasted.

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Ive drilled a hole on the inside footwell side of these sills, then i can apply some of this cavity wax easily at the other end, which has a long pipe that gets into these sections > http://www.bilthambe...waxes/dynax-s50

This wax has been used on all the cavities in the inner wings, sills etc etc.

#44
SurGie

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These are some of the before pictures of the area >

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Here are the pictures of the rear footwell to the front floor section, as you can see the rust between the spot welded panels was quite bad, i think these were taken in between derusting it all >

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Here are the pictures of the rear fuel tank sill area, very corrosive and needed welding on this side only >

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After a bit of cutting out and derusting etc >

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More to follow :)

#45
SurGie

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After all the derusting was sorted, i etch weld through primered the panels and fitted a plate inside, this helped weld them back together due to the amount of rusted steel and drilled out spot welds etc.

Before the etch primer pictures >

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Weld through etch primer pictures >

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More to follow :)

#46
SurGie

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So after hiring a welder, which wasn't the best and tbh too expensive, i decided to splash out and get a proper good one, which i should have done in the first place but funds were short back then.

The one i bought is a British made Portamig and is known to be one of the best for the price, although i had to wait 5 weeks wait time till it was made to order and delivered > http://www.weldequip...mig-welders.htm

Compared to other MiG welders ive used, i really enjoyed using this one, its very good for thin steel due to its low amps etc, which helped welding this project. As time went on with more practice, my welding did improve.

Once this area was welded up, i left it and started another section of the project such as engine bay etc. Once the engine bay was all sorted with engine/suspension fitted, i turned the car round, then i derusted the whole of the rear chassis sections.

I'm off to work now, got to start at 10am today. I shall update as soon as i can, hopefully over the weekend.

George :)

#47
welshpug

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Nice welder, where did you find such a rusty 205? :lol: nearly like Damir's project!

#48
SurGie

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It came from Wirral near Liverpool, tbh its not all that bad in places compared to some ive seen. I think most untreated 205 GTI's nowadays will be around the same sort of condition if not worse, im surprised how rusty the spot welded floor pan to rear seat area was, it's not like water can easily get in there.

I have plans to make a work bench and other things with this welder, hopefully over this winter time. Might have a go at making a jig like the one pip470 used in future.

#49
SurGie

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Looking through Damir's project, mines no where near that sort of submerged 205 rust damage :P

Here are the side's of the outer sill & rear quarter sections after a bit of derusting >

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Again the worse side is the O/S.


Here is the the re-plate weld sections of the area >

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Here is the area all clean and ready for the Jotun 87 >

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More to follow :)

#50
SurGie

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Here is the windscreen spot welded panels with as much rust removed as possible >

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Below are the rear seat areas after derusting and cutting out, at first it looked fine with the tiniest amount to then find a big load of it under the sealant >

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A bigger sized plate was needed on the O/S seat area, this picture was before i finished the welding. For me i find the thin metal technique the easiest way, its when you weld on then off but on again before the weld pool cools down too much.

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These plates came from a doner 205, the red doner GT from ktm_kate's project thread, i shall use a lot more body parts from this car for my GT project thats not been worked on for a while.

George :)

#51
SurGie

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Here are a few pictures of these areas once primered with the Jotun 87 again >

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Inside the seating area before painting, the tape was there for painting underneath >

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Some pictures of the painted seat areas etc >

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#52
SurGie

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George :)

#53
Daviewonder

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Ah it all makes sense now.

I read this in another topic-

Never heard of it, been a while since ive been to the movies or anywhere good, no cash no time due to shades of grey lol.


I assumed you'd turned a bit fruity and were reading the books :lol:




Looks like an awesome job you're doing there though George, looking forward to more updates :)

#54
SurGie

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Yep, got it in one mate ;)

I dont need to read those books, the GF read them all twice and tells me what they're all about in one sentence just about. The project title is more to do with the cars theme and colour 'etc'.

Thanks Dave, nice of you to say :)

I'll try to update it as soon as i can, the next update will be the rear beam area and boot.

#55
GLPoomobile

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Maybe you should have called it "50 shades of rust" ;)

#56
SurGie

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Not any more it aint ;)

#57
SurGie

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Just before last winter i fitted some insulation to the garage door, so at least the temp will stay nice and level for the paint to dry quicker >

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Here is the beam and boot floor area before the derusting had started >

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Here is the original yellow Peugeot painted their beams with, although dirty you can see which type of yellow it is, not bright more burnt yellow/orange shade >

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More to follow :)

#58
SurGie

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A few inner boot pictures and re-welding >

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Here's the pictures of the job after 3 or so weeks, compared to the front floor pan this was a lot harder to achieve the same sort of clean steel finish, took more than two more weeks as well >

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More to follow :)

#59
SurGie

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There was still a little unmovable rust around but the Jotun 87 is designed to seal them in away from the air and water.

Below is one side, ie the worse side of the car's bump stop section. I wasn't sure whether to re-plate it due to the big rust caused hole or tap a new thread in. The original bolt had seized so it had to be drilled out. After the advice from Tom Fenton, i tapped it and it was successful, i was worried during because the captive nut inside was moving quite a bit, it might have broken free. I weld filled the hole then ground it back >

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All fitted with about 15mm taken off so the suspension an gain a little more movement >

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George :)

#60
allye

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Please update this more often! (even though they are daily updates any how) Can't wait to see the rest of it come together!



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